DAY 199: Cloncurry to Clem Walton Park

Sat 10th May 2008
57 km @ 16.8 km/hr
Sunny, 25 deg C
Elevation of destination 309 m
Distance to date 11885 km (7428 miles)

As I didn’t intend to go all the way to Mount Isa today I didn’t rush to get up, but once the sun came over the trees it was full on sun for the tent, so I stirred myself reluctantly. I got away from Cloncurry around 0930 after iced coffee and apple slice at the excellent bakery - everything I’ve had from here - bread; cakes etc., has all been delicious and very fresh.
There’s a bit more traffic on this road compared to the Normanton to Cloncurry road, but still not that much - maybe a couple of vehicles a minute on average today - but a significant number are road trains, many with 3 trailers. They usually gave me a wide berth though, and there is a good shoulder on this road anyhow. My mirror fell apart this morning so I’ll have to get used to looking behind me again, until I can replace it. The transmission feels much better for me shortening the chain yesterday though. It’s a nice sunny day but not too hot - just what I was hoping for in the north Australian winter - a nice temperature to ride in.
The scenery is much more interesting now - lots of red rocky mountains, well, hills at least - probably no more than 350m high - and the road undulates and bends continually. Lots of roadkill is apparent, some very smelly stuff....
After 40km or so is a monument to explorers Burke and Wills, who crossed through here on their journey from south to north Australia, and within another km is another, larger monument to the indigenous people of this area. There are some lovely words inscribed as follows:
“You who pass by are entering the Kalkadoon Tribal Lands. Displaced by the Europeans. Honour their name. Be brother and sister to their descendants.”

Up the track that’s now a road
Spear in hand, brown Adam strode
His was everything
Bare the back that knew no load
Naked, but a King!

Bounds the Kangaroo they stalked
Cattle graze where the wild men walked, and their camps have been
Silent bush where they laughed and talked
And their slate’s wiped clean.

Spear can never conquour gun
Man no more the horse outrun
By the gunblast tossed
Still in death lies every one
And the battle’s lost

River and Rockface and Tree
Taken and cut off from me
In heartache and fear
Scattered the wild and the free
And broken the spear

Earth and the Sun and the Sky
Knowing not wherefore or why
They each saw me roam
Happy to live and to die
My Bushland my Home

Age upon Age, slow time crept
Swift to the space age I leapt
At the hour’s decree
Back to the past turned and wept
For that timeless me...

I found it quite moving, especially with the close proximity of the path of Burke and Wills who helped open up this country. The face of an Aboriginal man in the plaque has several bullet holes in it - mind you, you can’t read too much into that since practically every other road sign has been shot at too - it seems to be a national sport as popular as throuwing glass bottles out of the car window. For Aboriginal read Red Indian, Pigmy, Highlander etc. etc.
A few km further west I came to a sign for Clem Walton Park, and pulled over to look at a large notice, that advised of Blue-Green Algae at the lake in the park. As I was reading it a car pulled up and a guy told me that there was a very nice camping area in the park, and lots of birds - nice of him. This was a bushland park of course - by the sound of it a ‘Non’ National Park - possibly privately owned and bequested. I had to go and investigate then, and rode the 1.5 km of gravel to the area in question. I was blown away when I went over a little rise to see the blue lake below - really pretty, and lots of birds of all kinds dotted around and on it. There was no-one else here either, and I found a perfect campsite on top of a little knoll overlooking the lake and about 150m away. For accuracies sake, the gravel road actually splits into 3, and the guy had advised me to take the first left then next right - all ways lead to the lake but at different points. I should mention there’s also a gate at the start of the track but it just has a loose chain wrapped over to hold it closed.
It was around 1430 when I arrived here, and quickly had the billy on for afternoon tea and apricot jam butty, and sat just admiring the wonderful view - what a find! I then sat under a shady tree with the binoculars and my Simpson and Day bird book Jim Crumlin style for about 2 hours. I knew most of the birds - there were flocks of Pied Cormorants, Brown and Pacific Black Ducks, Egrets, a White-Faced Heron or two, Kites, a poor lonely Pelican (awww), and having consulted the book I think there was a small flock of Yellow Thornbills, plus lots of others too numerous to mention. The cheeky little Willie Wagtails were everywhere, the most common bird here. I loe the way they leap and flit about - never still!
I also saw a few kangaroos grazing nearby, but most of them scattered when a car came by. Someone has had a fire here before so I went off and gathered some wood to do the same, and lit it just before dark.
I just saw 3 other vehicles before nightfall, so I am on my own now. I just heard a lot of clomping around in the dark, and this must be some cows wandering around. ( Oo-er!) It’s strange how the wind dies away at night -it nearly always does this - and the night is then utterly quiet, as it is now.
OK enough, time for supper - tea and Butternut Snap Cookies.

DAY 198: Day off in Cloncurry

Road trains in central Cloncurry.

Fri 9th May 2008
Sunny intervals, up to 27 deg C
Elevation of destination 205 m
Distance to date 11828 km (7392 miles)

A nice relaxed start to the day off, after a warmer night than the freezing cold night before - due today to cloud cover. The locals must have been praying they would be rain clouds but no, they dissipated during late morning.
I spent the morning cleaning the bulldust off the bike, swopping tyres back for front, and shortening the chain. The latter had gone very slack with wear, so much so that the eccentric bottom bracket adjustment was not enough to tighten the chain up enough, so I took a link out and it’s now normal tension again, but probably not for long. I phoned Vincent at St.Kilda Cycles this morning and the bits I ordered still haven’t come in from their supplier, so I won’t get then sooner than early next week now. I will probably be in Mount Isa, where I asked for them to be delivered, by Sunday or Monday, so I’ll see whether they turn up in time before I want / need to leave there - I may be able to get them forwarded on somewhere else e.g. Katherine if I decide to move on without them.
This morning I also got around to listing all the components and accessories on the bike for the website, with comments on how the stuff’s performing - I’ve been meaning to do this for a while. I hope it might act as good advice for others planning a trip like this.
I had a delicious pastie and Chelsea Bun for lunch at the very good bakery here in Cloncurry, before going to the library opposite to upload. I also sent quite a few e-mails that had been waiting to be done, so this has been a good chance to catch up with correspondance. I also had a nice chat with Jen and Gareth in Brisbane last night, whom I haven’t called recently. I tried to explain to them what was going on with Lyn and I as best I could, but I don’t think either Lyn or I are sure really! I’m enjoying this trip immensely, but also looking forward to being back close to her again, and I dearly hope it all works out for us. Que sera sera though....
I spent the remainder of the afternoon by the pool, cooling off and reading the paper etc.
I bought fresh bread, chicken slices and tomatoes for a cold dinner, which w as what I fancied - the fresh bread especially is something I haven’t had so much of lately - washed down with a coupla bottles of Bundeburg rum and lime and ginger. I’m spending more time on the grass outside lately rather than cooped in the tent away from the mozzies a bit of repellant works wonders and they leave me alone.
Tomorrow I’m heading for Mount Isa 128km away - I will probably take 2 days, bush camping tomorrow night hopefully. I also have 2 offers for me to stay with folk in Darwin in 2 or 3 weeks, which I am really looking forward to.

Bicycle stuff - report on bike and accessories May 08

This is an update of how the bike (Thorn Raven Tour with Rohloff hub gearbox) and bike gear is holding up under nearly 200 days and 11,000 km touring Oz so far..........(pics in order of text)

(1) Frame and forks
Heavy, but presumably strong - it certainly survived 2 crashes at speed unscathed.

(2) Saddle
Rolls San Marco - I’ve used these on all my bikes for years and am reasonably happy with them. I have had bad saddle sores here in Oz but that was probably caused by a boil. I can’t really say if another saddle would have been better!

(3) Carbon handlebars
Thorn Comfort Carbon Bars - they have proved very comfortable. Although there’s a slight risk in catastrophic breakage with carbon items - I have tried not to damage or scratch them. I seldom get pins and needles or numbness with these.

(4) Topeak Bar Bag - I chose this small one so that the carbon bar ends could fit either side OK without fouling the brakes, and it has proved quite adequate for camera, pen, notebook, money, compass, reading glasses and other little essentials. The inner pocket is useful for keeping the waterproof cover, fly net, and the strap that converts the bar bag to a bum bag. It came with a short extension bar which I can attatch my Garmin Edge 305 GPS computer onto. It seems to be standing up OK to heavy use.

(5) Carbon bar ends
Thorn’s own make - very expensive at £50 / pair but wonderful to use, almost sensual, and very comfortable. I’ve fiddled with them a lot but now got a good position allowing me to get down when going into the wind, or simply to change to a different position at times. Getting into this lower position also takes the weight off my bottom and puts it onto my arms, which relieves the back end a little. My saddle sores seem to be less troublesome in headwinds!

(6) Handlebar mirror
This is my second after the first $35 one fell apart after 3 months - the present one is from K-Mart and cost only $8 (£3.50). I deem it essential for reading the road, especially getting out of the way of roadtrains coming from behind. I take responsibilty for myself rather than expect others to avoid me.

(7) Brakes
Shimano V-Brakes - not sure of model but standard on Thorn Raven Tour. Performed OK; had to replace rear cable (inner and outer) after 10,000 km. I have trouble setting the blocks in the right position, but that’s just my lack of skill I expect.

(8) Bike computer (wireless)
A £5 one from Lidl’s in the UK - works very well.

(9) Handlebar grips
Ergon - I’m not so keen on these - I don’t understand the shape; how are they ergonomic? They are just about fallen apart now too so I’ll have to replace soon thankfully.

(10) Rohloff Hub Gears and transmission
After an early oil leak caused by mismanagement on the plane coming over (a leak that Rohloff said didn’t matter!) no problems at all. Cables disconnect easily for removing rear wheel; gearchange usually quite positive although occasionally slips out of gear; ratios excellent for very steep hills carrying lots of weight (I have 36-16). I’ve only had to walk up 1 or 2 hills on the Bloomfield Track up to Cooktown, and these were 25%-ers! The chain was badly stretched after 6,000km and I replaced it and the ring and sprocket in Melbourne with Rohloff originals. The transmission is just about worn out again now as I write after nearly 12,000km. I’ve had to buy the special tool to remove the rear sprocket this time because I’m nowhere near a Rohloff dealer - I am hoping to borrow a chain whip from someone to complete the work myself. I’m having the parts posted out to me Poste Restante. I also carry the Rohloff manual in case of repairs I’m not familiar with.
I have a very slight issue with the Rohloff gearchange - a twistgrip on the handlebars - it’s a little stiff even when the cables are adjusted properly, especially when my hands are sweaty - they tend to slip off or I can’t get a good grip on the shifter. It could be more angular or have something to give more grip.

(11) Lights
I have a SON Front Hub dynamo which seems very relable and has low rolling resistance. The Lumitec front light has an automatic position and it comes on if it goes dark for any reason. I don’t use it much really as I nearly always cycle in daylight.
Rear light is a cheap LED which takes 2 x AAA rechargeable batteries. I have a 2-battery AA/AAA 15 minute charger and can usually find somewhere to plug it in for a short time.

(12) Wheels and tyres
Mavic EX 721’s that came as standard are still true after 11,000km including some very bumpy off-road tracks, so I assume they’re very well built up. No broken spokes. They still look good too.

Tyres - I got nearly 10,000km out of a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Supreme’s at the start of the tour and they rolled really well - they are on the slick - roadie side. I’m doing rougher roads now so resorted to more grippy Schwalbe Hurricane Raceguards and they seem bomb-proof. I’ve had 3 punctures in 12,000km in Oz, all on the Supremes.
Tubes - K-Mart do a very cheap heavyweight (thorn-resistant) tube for around $7 (£3) - great value.

(13) Mudguards
I bought the bike with wide guards to clear the 2" wheels, and I decided to leave them on for the Oz trip. There have been quite a few rainy days so I guess they’ve kept me a bit drier, but out here in Oz it’s so warm you don’t feel cold when wet anyhow, so I don’t think they’re of great value. Maybe I should bin them?

(14) Panniers and Racks
Ortlieb Back Roller Plus back and front - plenty of room for everything, and they are VERY well made and completely waterproof - I pushed the bike through rivers 600mm (2 ft) deep without leakage in. The roller mechanism means you can fit extra stuff (masses) in like when shopping or in an emergency, even though you temporarily can’t close it to watertight standard. These bags have really been knocked about but they have survived utterly intact - a great investment.
I bought a pair of Ortlieb’s little 7 litre bags that screw onto the rear panniers, and these are for tools and spares respectively. To strengthen the plastic attatchment bracket I also added a zip tie to the top bracket for extra strength. Despite quite a lot of weight in these bags they have given no problems. Ortlieb make great products!
The racks are Thorn’s own make - as I understand it hand welded and very strong indeed (certified to 15kg - 25kg each - front/back). No problems at all - they exude confidence. I go round and check all the bolts are still tight occasionally but none have ever come loose yet.

(15) Pedals
I bought the Shimano ones which have the SPD fitting on one side and flat on the other. I now don’t often seem to use the SPD cleats so it’s a bit of a fiddle at times to find the flat side - the SPD side always seems to be on top. I got these pedals because I bought the Shimano SPD sandals which are the only shoes I have. The sandals are looking a bit sad - the black outer leather is peeling off and they look a mess, however they are still intact structurally. I would probably buy better shoes and plain pedals next time (and might still have to do that here if the shoes fall apart).

(16) Water / fuel bottles
The 1.5 litre PET carrier is great, and with the conventional 700ml bottle I have enough water for a good distance without having to unstrap the water bags from the rear rack. The 700ml bottle has a wooly sock around it which when wetted cools down the drink inside - infinitely better than drinking warm water!
I have a Topeak adjustable bottle carrier on the seat tube which holds an MSR 1 litre fuel bottle, which I top up with petrol every 2 or 3 weeks or so (not shown).

(17) Lock
I’ve got a plastic-covered half-inck steel chain some 18" long, with sturdy padlock. A good deterrent unless a determined thief has bolt croppers.

DAY 197: Bush camp to Cloncurry

DAY 197: Bush camp to Cloncurry

Thurs 8th May 2008
17 km @ 14.4 km/hr
Sunny, 26 deg C
Elevation of destination 205 m
Distance to date 11828 km (7392 miles)
Last night was freezing cold - it must have been close to zero; I had to put extra clothing on around 0400 including my Assos balaclava, which I brought ‘just in case’ but had never used before. I didn’t get fully warm even then, and as dawn approached I got the billy on, had a hot cuppa, snuggled back into the sleeping bag, and waited for the sun to warm me up. I didn’t get up until around 0745 since I only had a short ride today to Cloncurry.
This has been a very good campsite - nice and flat, quiet, and easy to get into, unlike on other occasions when I’ve had to battle through scrub and brush to find as good spot.
The run into Cloncurry was uneventful, same old Savannah, same old SE wind in my face - but not for much longer, he he - I’ll hopefully have a tailwind now I’m heading west.
I passed over the utterly dried-out Cloncurry River just before hitting the town itself, where I quoffed a big iced coffee and Mrs. Mack’s Sausage Roll at the Servo. I then stumbled across the library where there’s a good internet speed and where I had no trouble updating the blog. I had 32 e-mails too, which took some time to answer properly, including some from Lyn, which I enjoyed reading. I hope we have a future together, because deep down I know we can be happy together. I have come to understand that she’s working really hard, enduring long hours, and I’m having a great time out here. I guess I’d feel a bit put out if the boot were on the other foot!
One thing I was keen to see here is the Flying Doctor museum - Cloncurry was the first base for this ground-breaking organisation, established by John Flynn in 1928. I was somewhat disappointed by the lady running the place, who rather disinterestedly trotted out the spiel about this place as quickly as possible, like an automaton; she didn’t even look at me, and did the same with the next couple that followed me in, word for word. When I asked her where the toilet was she retorted indignantly "I told you - through there!" OK, we can all have a bad day I guess. Nevertheless it’s a good exhibition, and probably worth the $9 admission fee.
I checked in at the Cloncurry CP Oasis ($10/pppn), which looks OK, and decided to eat out. The Bio Cafe provided a very good dinner of beer-battered Baramundi, chips and a big salad, and I rounded off with ice cream (4 scoops!) with chocolate and caramel sauce. It was a Bring Your Own (BYO) place so I bought a bottle of pseudo Brut and took it in with me, and supoped the lot (hic). I was probably over the limit to ride the bike back to the CP but don’t tell anyone! I thoroughly enjoyed the meal though, and said so to the folks there.
Cloncurry is a pleasant enough place; some old buildings and big rambling Queensland-style pubs (though none had tables outside, curiously), wide streets, and good supermarkets lol. Although my food supplies were completely depleted I didn’t buy too much as there will be more choice in Mount Isa, 120km west of here. I may take 2 days to get there if I find a nice wild camping spot, but I’d like to catch the post office there open to hopefully collect 2 parcels, one from Lyn and one from St.Kilda Cycles with my transmission bits. Once I get the latter I can work out how / where to get them fitted to the bike. I have ordered a special tool to remove the rear sprocket but still preferably need a chain whip to effect this. Otherwise I’ll have to use someone’s vice and bodge it that way using the old chain.
The road to Mount Isa and beyond will be a bit busier than the one from Normanton, but hopefully still relatively quiet. There should be more ‘stopping places’ to get my ‘treats’ too with a bit of luck. I may spend the long weekend in MI to get the bike and a few other things sorted out, in fact if the parcel from SKC hasn’t arrived I’ll just have to wait until it does.

NB/ 5th pic is of the dry Cloncurry River bed - now a dust bowl.

DAY 196: Kajabbi to bush camp 17km N of Cloncurry

First 3 pics are of the Kalkadoon Hotel at Kajabbi. The 6th pic is not the gravel road but a dry river bed!

Weds 7th May 2008
96 km @ 12.3 km/hr
Sunny, 26 deg C
Elevation of destination 188 m
Distance to date 11811 km (7382 miles)
I was slow to get away this morning after waking later than usual. I had breakfast of toast, cheese and honey from Pat’s fridge, which made a nice change. After goodbyes I hit the 26km of gravel road from here back to the Normanton - Cloncurry road, some 40km S of where I left it yesterday, so this detour to Kajabbi added 28km in total.
I had been told this gravel road was better than that I cycled in on yesterday, at least, less bulldust, and that was probably true for motorists, however the surface was very stony, and soft in places. But worst of all was the increased wind speed - it was probably around 40 knots / Force 6-7 at times, and it really made this hard going since I was heading right into it i.e. to the E/SE. The flies were bad again too, and I couldn’t wear the net because it stops me seeing all the obstacles in the road quickly enough. I wasn’t a happy bunny then, and this 26km took me 2 hours 50 minutes - 9.1 km/hr. There was no pleasure at all in this stretch, and the landscape is all the same - sparse trees and bare soil. The most open areas were a nightmare, allowing the full wind speed to buffet me, with just a little respite where there were a few trees.
At last I thankfully reached the bitumen, and celebrated with a cheese on toast sandwich I didn’t eat at breakfast.
Speed increased a little now I was back on the main road, but the wind was still in front of me, to the left. Again the open sections were the worst. In the first 5 hours of riding today I covered little more than 50km! I've never gone slower. This is equivalent to riding from Thurso to Wick and halfway back!!!One kind motorist slowed down to ask me if I was OK - I must have looked a bit out of it. I knew there was a hotel about halfway from the Kajabbi junction to Cloncurry, and sure enough after 52km (from the start) I reached the Quamby Hotel, a sight for sore eyes after today’s hard labour. It’s a nice-looking place, all tastefully done out with Cobb & Co. murals on the outside and rustic ironwork made from scrap cars and other junk. It was of course a former coaching station on the 19th century transport / distribution network belonging to that famous company. I had been dreaming of iced coffee but unfortunately they had none, so I plumped for a couple of cans of Coke poured into a glassfull of ice, plus a bin liner-sized bag of sea salt crisps. I also topped up on water in expectation of another bush camp tonight - I might as well just camp in the bush if I find a decent place rather than push on into Cloncurry - at least I’m guaranteed peace and quiet, and it's free AND more pleasureable! As I sat outside every driver that passed waved to me, or maybe to the Hotel too, which is quite a landmark in this deserted region.
After the stop I felt somewhat revived, and seemed to be going much better, and some 35km later, at 1730, I found a very good campsite, well hidden from the road, close by the Sedan Dip junction. I did notice some cows nearby, and I didn't want to get trampled on in the night, so I made double sure they couldn't get through the fence onto my side. In soem places I've been through the cattle just wander about on and across the unfenced road, which sometimes is the case in N Scotland too of course. I waited until nearly dark so that the flies wouldn’t trouble me before I cooked, and I set up BBC World Service with the 10m extension cable that came with the Sony SW radio, getting pretty good reception even though they aren’t supposed to broadcast to Oz (it was the Chinese transmission I was getting). I felt thoroughly tired after today’s effort and will get an early night.

DAY 195: Bush camp to Kajabbi

Tues 6th May 2008
73 km @ 12.2 km/hr
Sunny, 30 deg C
Elevation of destination 152 m
Distance to date 11715 km (7322 miles)
Awake in time to watch the dawn whilst eating muesli breakfast in bed, and away at 0810. As soon as I came out of the tent the flies descended in scores as if they'd waited just for me all night. I’d packed everything up without opening the tent flap though so with head net on I could load up the bike without them all over my face. I wonder why they always go for the face? You hardly ever see them on other parts of the body - weird...as I’ve said before, they just ignore insect repellant alltogether. There appears to be no way to deter them.
The first 25km or so consisted of a draggy uphill - by no means steep, but with a bit of a headwind it seemed a bit like it. It’s a new road too, one that you can see stretching ahead for 2km or more sometimes - not very motivating when you see an uphill ahead. I guess I’ve been spoilt with all the flat roads lately.
Very few birds to be seen other than the Apostles as usual, and 3 Wedge-Tailed Eagles, 2 of which were roadkill, but a few kangaroos thumping dementedly away from me across the open bush. Tree cover is very thin around here, so the light wind is full-on. I'm saddened by the number of dead Eagles - such a beautifil bird and lord of it's territory, but not of mans territory, which is everywhere I guess.
After 30km, as I approached the right turn for Kajabbi (I had more or less decided to go this way although longer and a gravel road) I saw again the unexpected spectacle of another cyclist, then another...then another - 12 in fact! This was a supported tour from Port Augusta to Burketown along the Birdsville Track and other gravel roads like the one from Kajabbi, where they stayed last night. Sounded pretty ########, but they weren’t carrying any weight since their stuff was in the broom wagon, however a great feat noentheless, and with respect, some of them were quite advanced in years - good on ya guys. All of them had front suspension too, and I feel that this was an omission on my part - it’s very handy indeed on this type of terrain. I was bombarded with questions and well-photographed before we parted. I was told that the gravel road I was about to turn onto was not too difficult (unless you’re carrying 40kg of baggage that is lol, as I later realised).
Undeterred I set off and was soon sliding around in deep bulldust trying not to fall off, although later on I kind of got the hang of keeping going. You also quickly get to know where it’s safe to cycle and where not. When the sand went the coarse gravel appeared, and this was very hard going for about 5km - stone size ranged from 1mm to 50mm and I was jumping and jerking and sliding all over the place. It was very hot and dusty and I drank a lot more than usual, however I was well supplied with water. A few vehicles, including road trains hauling beef cattle, passed me in a huge cloud of fine bulldust, however I was on the left and the wind was blowing to the right so I escaped the worst of it. This whole area is absolutely dry - not a trace of water anywhere. This 43km on gravel was a big effort taking around 4 hours, and I was delighted to see the 4 or 5 buildings that make up Kajabbi village.
It was straight to the pub / camp ground, and I had a beer and glass of cold water before setting up - mistake, because I then felt very tired, the effects of drinking during the day. However the landlord, Pat, 1st generation ex-Pom, was very chatty and we arranged for me to ‘raid’ his fridge for food for a small fee rather than bodge my own dwindling food supplies - nice! Also tea or coffee whenever I wanted.
The sunset was utterly amazing again tonight - long vivid bands of bright orange merging to blue, and spread halfway around the horizon; I just sat and watched it for ages. The sun disappears around 1810 at present, but the last colouring in the sky is present until 1850 or so. Quite a show.... I love the Outback.
I cooked up some sausage on the barbie and made rolls smeared with salsa, then went around to the front where several locals were sat outside in armchairs having a drink and shooting the breeze. They’re a friendly and welcoming lot here, and it was interesting to find out from Jeanie, Jack, Pat and the others all about this place over a Bundy rum ‘n coke, and how much they liked the place (unspoilt! We don’t want a bitumen road!). The village population is around a dozen, with 40 or 50 more on the surrounding cattle stations. It hasn’t rained since last December, and the local cattle stations are feling anxious - they’re not able to grow the fodder for the animals. There is no school or doctor, but the Flying Doctor Service can be out here from Cloncurry in 30 minutes. Publican Pat feels that he no longer wants to travel; he has found his El Dorado right here in remote Outback Queensland, with all his local friends as well as many more via the internet. He is right into making cash by advertising via Adsense, a Google company, and he showed me on his computer how it all works. I liked Pat a lot - unpretentious, friendly and interesting, with similar views on the world to my own as far as I had chance to observe during our brief encounter. Nice evening in good company.

DAY 194: Bang Bang Jump Up to bush camp 41.5 km S Burke & Wills Roadhouse

Mon 5th May 2008
132 km @ 16.4 km/hr
Location S 19 deg 32.781’; E 140 deg 14.400’
Sunny, mid-20’s deg C
Elevation of destination 123 m
Distance to date 11642 km (7276 miles)
Utter peace and quiet in the bush last night - and a long, long deep sleep left me feeling very fresh this morning. I awoke gently as the sky started to lighten (I was sleeping under the mesh inner only having left the outer shell in the bag as there was no chance of rain) and just lay and watched the red and orange develop until the sun finally peeped over the eastern horizon. This kind of camping beats Caravan Parks hands down; no drunken or noisy humans to spoil the peace either, and much closer to nature where I love to be.
I set off around 0750 and just a few hundred metres down the road was a rest area - this wasn’t marked on my map so it must be new - and toilets, but I would still have sooner beenwhere I was. I did hear the odd lorry stop last evening come to think of it. I was another 15km south when I saw my first vehicle, and even after that there was little traffic - what there was was mostly caravanners / tourists.
There was considerable bird and ‘Roo activity for the first hour or so - I disturbed a Wedge-Tailed Eagle devouring some roadkill, and flocks of Little Corellas, plus the usual numerous groups of Apostlebirds. Roo’s bounded away with a staccato thump of their big back legs. There are still plenty of cattle too, though what they find to eat out here I don’t know; the vegetation is sparse and thorny - lots of Spinnifex and other coarse grasses, completely devoid of moisture in this very arid region.
Again, absolutely nothing in the way of habitation / buildings. Burke and Wills Roadhouse, the midway point in the 380km stretch between Normanton and Cloncurry is the only place there is, and it’s my first target today - a great incentive / treat!
After 30km I stopped at another rest area with table and roof, and enjoyed a shady billy-boil coffee break and a couple of peanut butter and jam muffins. Thereafter the wildlife was less apparent as it heated up, well, live stuff anyway, but I was quite content and going very well. The wind was slightly behind or on my left side, coming from the east. The road heads SSW for the first 90km today then SSE thereafter.
I got lots of waves and toots from motorists probably glad of a break from the monotony in the form of a mad cyclist. It wasn’t as hot as recent days, quite a pleasant 25 or so. The kms to Burke and Wills came down pretty quickly on the 10km marker signs - 90, 80.......30, 20, 10, yesssss! Walking into the roadhouse was like stepping into another world from the solitude of the road and bush camp - music, chatter, glasses clinking, kids screaming, pots crashing....and about 20 pairs of eyes turned to scrutinise me, but nobody spoke to me at all! Anyway I was more interested in the chilled drinks cabinet, and joy! They had 750ml bottles of Dare Double Espreesso....beautiful, wonderful....

I ordered a steakburger and blueberry muffin and by the time the former had arrived 25 minutes later the coffee was just about gone. The burger bun was dry and not very nice unfortunately, but I wasn’t going to waste it. I also bought myself a rather tasty Burke and Wills Roadhouse momento sleeveless T-shirt; something else to haul lol.
I topped up all my water bottles to the max, in fact they were all empty and I am using more water than I thought I would now that I’m in the hot Outback cycling longer days - somewhere around 6 litres a day altogether, including cooking water, everything. I’ve got another couple of bottles so in future I’ll be able to carry the following:
6 litre Sea to Summit bag (rear carrier)
4 litre Sea to Summit bag (rear carrier)
1.5 litre PET bottle (cage under down tube)
0.75 litre drinking bottle (cage above down tube)
1.25 litre iced coffee bottle (rear carrier)
2 x 0.75 litre iced coffee bottles (secured on top of front pannier)
That makes 15 litres in all i.e. 15kg, but at a pinch this would just about keep me going for 2 nights / 3 days riding if need be. In fact there aren’t many stretches where I’ll need to do that so I won’t always have them all full.
I spent about an hour at B&W RH then left feeling revived. After 10 km or so the road bent to SSE and the light E-SE wind was slightly in my face, enough to slow me down a little, nevertheless I put in another 42km, riding until 1730. I scanned the side of the road for wild camping spots for a while but nothing felt right, until I came to a telecomms mast and substation, and I was able to lift the chain on the gate and go in (I found that most of the gates to these places and to field access gates were not locked; they just have a mechanism for hanging a chain to stop it opening accidentally - this is useful to know. There’s no chance of anyone complaining about accessing these points - there’s nobody out here! I just make sure I get in without being seen for security’s sake, and I never leave any mess or any trace that I’ve been there.
All day again today there have been lots of bush flies, and I have to wear the net most of the time. They were particularly bad as it approached dusk and there were thousands around me as I set up camp. Last night lots followed me into the tent and were a pain to kill / get out, so tonight I was very careful by backing into a small opening in the flap, and when it was time to get my head in (this is where most of the flies like to land) gave my head a good shake to get them off for a second as I drew my head in. I still managed to introduce half a dozen, but they soon got the chop. I didn’t start cooking until darkness fell, since the flies are in bed by then. After dinner I sat outside and watched the stars, having applied mozzie repellant first. I now know where the Southern Cross constellation is - this can’t be seen from Europe, though Orion is clearly visible here in the northern sky, except that it’s turned 90 degrees - effectively on it’s side compared to what we see in the UK, as is the crescent moon.
And now, perfect peace again....lovely.