DAY 250: Victoria River to bush camp Dingo Springs Creek

Mon 30th June 2008
76 km @ 18.7 km/hr
Sunny, 31 deg C
Elevation of /destination 78 m
Distance to date 14817 km (9261 miles)

I slept soundly last night and felt much better this morning. I was up a little late and Alistair was just about to leave having been up for ages. I thought maybe I’d check out this area before moving on, and might even stay here another night since the caravan park is so quiet and spacious. We swopped e-mail adresses so that we could keep in touch - we are probably both going the same way to Broome. I’ve no doubt we’ll meet again soon. Alistair is great company, very chatty, and a good companion.
After breakfast I rode out to the Escarpment Walk just 1 or 2km west. This is a 3km round trip up a steepish rocky path ending up some 150m above the river valey on the escarpment edge. The pics will hopefully speak for themselves, but the view is very nice from the top, and the walk was well worthwhile. Heat was starting to radiate from the hot, dry red rocks as the sun climbed higher.
After a welcome iced coffee back at the roadhouse I decided to pack up and move on, since I was content I’d seen sufficient of the area, and was eager to seek new delights. There was a light SE wind blowing that helped push me along a little, but I was happy to ride slowly through Gregory NP and admire the rocky mountain scenery. It is pretty stunning and the colours so Australian. The road was pretty quiet except for the usual caravanners, and quite a good surface. There’s a lot of roadkill - mostly Agile Wallaby by the looks of them - these poor beggars obviously weren’t agile enough against the merciless vehicles! There were quite a few very smelly cattle corpses lying at the side of the road too, which must have made some impact even on a roadtrain.
It was easy riding and before I knew it I’d covered 55km without a break, so I lingered for a while by a shady creek watching the striped fish going about their business. A little later a kind couple in a campervan stopped to see if I had enough water, but I was OK. It was around 1600 and I thought I’d stop short of the next roadhouse / CP at Timber Creek and camp wild. My “Cycling Outback Australia” guide listed a good site at Dingo Springs Creek, and it did indeed look OK - well off the road and just about far enough from the Creek (which has plenty of water) not to worry about crocs getting me (I hope!). After setting up I strolled over to the creek and there was a nice pool just away from the main channel that looked perfect for washing the dust off my hot body. It was about 2 or 3’ deep and a walk around confirmed there was no croc in there, and it would not be easy given the shallow rocky pool entrance for one to get in, so I stripped off and got in - delicious and cool, a real treat! I washed a couple of things in there too before getting out and got dry without a towel in just a few minutes by moving around in the warm late-afternoon sunshine. It was perfectly quiet and peaceful as I read the paper and sipped my first cup of tea.
Dinner was ready just as it was getting dark, and the temperature dropped noticeably, and as soon as I’d cleared away I sat in the tent with legs in sleeping bag whilst typing this.

DAY 249: Rest area to Victoria River

Sun 29th June 2008
95 km @ 17.4 km/hr
Sunny, 31 deg C
Elevation of /destination 50 m
Distance to date 14817 km (9261 miles)

The curse struck again last night when a party of 6 young people from Merseyside arrived at the rest area at 2100, got the beers out and started making lots of row. This lasted until around midnight and whereas I had been ready for sleep just before they arrived, it didn’t come so easily then. On top of that someone was snoring very loudly nearby and I couldn’t drown it out. I eventually got to sleep around 1 I think, but felt pretty washed out in the morning.
After breakfast with Alistair we set off for the second leg between Katherine and Kununurra. The scenery became more interesting today with mountains and gorges either side of the road, and although Alistair was enjoying it it was rather lost on me as I was feeling somewhat negative. I’m going through a bad patch at the moment, partly due to lack of sleep, and partly due to the return of a sore bum. The road is pretty uninteresting at times too which I knew would be the case but have largely taken in my stride so far.
There was nowehere to stop for a ‘treat’ today so we had to make do with (eventually) finding a shady spot to have lunch, where we lingered chatting for more than an hour. I am enjoying the company; certainly the conversation and intreraction, and Al is a great guy, but I’m not so keen on riding with someone else for long periods - the dynamics just don’t feel right and I can’t focus properly. Most cyclists will understand this I think.
On arrival at Victoria River Roadhouse we decided to check into the caravan park since it seemed quiet and spacious, whereas after the row last night we had thought it best to camp in the bush. It is nice and relaxing actually, and I expect I’ll sleep OK tonight.

DAY 248: Katherine to rest area 102km SW of Katherine

Sat 28th June 2008
102 km @ 18.4 km/hr
Sunny, 32 deg C
Elevation of /destination 194 m
Distance to date 14722 km (9201 miles)

Not the quietest of nights by any means but up at the usual time and sharing breakfast with fellow travellers. When I returned to the tent backpackers owner Coco came over to me with a worried look on his face - and told me he had just reversed his trailer onto my tent! I went over to see what damage had been done, and the outer shell was ripped and frayed for about half a metre. To be fair, Coco was very concerned and even offered to pay for a new tent, but I didn’t feel I could ask that of him, especially when the tent was a bit battered anyway. He offered to take it to the camping shop to see what could be done, and was told to take it to the upholsterer, where he left it for repair, to be collected at noon. I wasn’t too happy as I’d no idea what kind of job they would make of it, but what could I do?
In the meantime I took a parcel to the post office for sending home unneeded stuff, but they were closed all day Saturday so that was out. By the time I’d fed myself at Subway and watched the didgeridoo painters for a while Coco was back with the outer tent, and it wasn’t a bad job, except wrong colour and different material - oh well!
I finally left Katherine at 1255 and headed SW on the Victoria Highway to Kununurra, the next big town 530km away.
The road was much quieter than the Stuart Highway thankfully, without a shoulder for the most part, through the usual Savannah woodlands with gentle undulations and long straights. The first rest area was at 33km and I stopped for a little while, but a noisy group arrived and shattered the peace, so I left them to it. There was another at 56km too, which was full of caravanners setting up for the night. I had noted from my guide that there was a camping area at 90km, but it failed to materialise and I finished up riding all the way to the third area at 102km as it was just becoming completely dark. Alistair was there as expected (he said he would probably stay here) so we camped together under the roofed ‘picnic area’ straight on the concrete.
It was quite a pleasant evening until 6 rowdy young English folk arrived in a campervan and made sure everyone knew they were here. They were incredibly loud on this very quiet night - completely oblivious to the other 20 or so people staying here tonight. They were aided and abetted by some middle-aged English tourists from the same area of England - Liverpool I think - who combined with them to spoil it for everyone else. Europeans like to stay up late whereas Australians (and cyclists) like to get to sleep earlier - no chance tonight! I had looked for somewhere to camp in the bush for the last 20km, but the road was fenced and there was nowhere suitable.

DAY 247: Edith Falls to Katherine

Fri 27th June 2008
61 km @ 15.7 km/hr
Sunny, 28 deg C
Elevation of /destination xxx m
Distance to date 14620 km (9137 miles)

I got away around 0930 after comparing more notes with Tim and Will, and with the SE wind mostly behind me for the first 20km i.e. as far as the Stuart Highway. Then the wind was mostly on the left side but in front of me for several km uphill and pretty tough.
I was in Katherine within 4 hours and enjoying the delights of Brumby’s bakery once again. First stop was the fast internet place I used when I was here last, and it didn’t take long to upload 12 days blog and pics - faster for my pre-sorting of pics from the many I took during this period. E-mailing wasn’t as succesful, since there seemed to be something wrong at G-mail, which kept breaking off. I actually lost an e-mail that Lyn sent me, strangely.
I had been recommended Coco’s Backpackers by the cyclists I met this week so I decided to give it a go. It’s right in the town centre so more convenient than any of the caravan parks, which are well outside. It’s basic, but friendly, and there’s yet another cyclist, Alistair from New Zealand, who is heading the same way as me. I think I will leave here tomorrow though, as I’ve been and done Katherine already, and I’m keen to see pastures new. Alistair will also ride the Gibb River Road, so we have been comparing notes tonight.
I did a big shop earlier at Woolworth’s, in preparation for a few days haul to Kununurra, where the next decent supermarket is situated. All I have to do know is to fit it all in the bags.
Hopefully the SE-er will persist and help me along for the next few hundred km.....

DAY 246: Day off at Edith Falls

Thurs 26th June 2008
Sunny, 29 deg C
Elevation of /destination 142 m
Distance to date 14620 km (9137 miles)

It was much colder last night than lately, and I put socks on in the night and coccooned myself inside the sleeping bag to get warm, so I didn’t jump up at first light, but waited until it warmed up somewhat before getting breakfast. It has been a very peaceful night.
I set off on the 3km walk around the lake, which climbs steeply over a very rocky path onto the high ground which ends in the ‘cliff’ above the circular lake. All kinds of trees and plants are in evidence, not to mention a plethora of birds, many unseen but just heard, and some calls I didn’t recognise. Some of these questions were answered by a man who caught me up and stopped for a rest where I was sat admiring the view (there are seats at the top of all the slopes with lovely views). This guy was from Katherine, around my age I think, and he was walking and birdwatching. I quizzed him about some of the birds, but he was a mine of information about all fauna and flora, and also about Aboriginal culture. We had a lot in common and had a good hour identifying trees and shrubs; I only hope I can remember half of it! He is currently working on the mines at Mount Isa - 2 weeks on, 1 week off.
At the top of this walk there is a plunge pool and some people were determined to have a splash, such as the 2 goose-pimpled females in the pic. It did look very inviting, but I had plans to swim in the big lake this afternoon when the sun is high and it’s quicker to dry off and get warm. It’s not cold like UK-cold though - even an evening swim when the sun is low is quite tolerable.
It was brunch time on my return and the kiosk did a good ham and cheese salad sarnie for me, at very reasonable cost, with the inevitable Double-Shot Paul’s Iced Coffee and blueberry muffin to accompany. How I love my treats!
Afterwards I found somewhere shady and started typing today’s blog. This place is very relaxing, and I know I’ll be tempted to stay a third night, but I’ll review this later. I’m just about ‘on schedule’ but think I can gain plenty of days whilst crossing the wastelands of northern WA; less so if I decide to ride the 710km gravel Gibb River Road across the Kimberley, which will take at least 12 to 15 days at my expected pace. I’m definitely looking forward to getting away from the Stuart Highway and lorries; there shouldn’t be nearly as many once I turn west at Katherine in a few days time, and of course I should have the SE wind behind me again if things stay the same.
Well, the swim was good, and whilst drying off in the sunshine I got chatting to a couple from Tamworth, Qld, who are ‘on the road’ indefinitely, having sold their motel business. After this I did a few chores including mending last week’s puncture, and then repeated the edge walk going the other way around. The late afternoon colours made the scenery different from this morning, and this time I took the binoculars and did a bit of birding - I identified a few Honeyeaters that I hadn’t seen before, but also a small snake that someone reckoned to be a poisonous Western Brown. There were few people around as sunset approached and it was very tranquil sitting watching the wildlife and gazing across the tree-covered bush from my high vantage point.
When I got back to the tent 2 more cyclists had set up near me - brothers Tim and Will from Newcastle, NSW. They too are cycling around Oz and currently heading north to Darwin, then back, anticlockwise, the way I am going. As we chatted yet another cyclist rolled into the camp; he didn’t see us and I didn’t see where he went. You don’t see any for weeks, but all of a sudden there are hordes....
I broke off chatting to cook dinner before attending a ranger talk about the area at 1930, which turned out to be very interesting, and the couple from this morning brought me a beer, which was kind of them. I didn’t make a note of their names unfortunately, doh. By the end of the talk it was getting quite cold, and it was hot cuppa and sleeping bag for me while I type this up. Tomorrow I can hopefully upload at Katherine at last, which will be a relief.
My left knee is quite painful sometimes, mostly in the early morning rather than later, of whilst riding, and I may get a pressure bandage for it. It started all of a sudden a few weeks ago seemingly after pedalling hard whilst clipped into the pedals. However the saddle sores have disappeared and all I get is just a soreness around the seat bones, as would be expected with so many hours in the saddle. A fat arse would help as padding, rather than just my skin and bone lol.

DAY 245: Bush camp to Edith Falls

Weds 25th June 2008
83 km @ 14.0 km/hr
Sunny, 30 deg C
Elevation of destination 142 m
Distance to date 14620 km (9137 miles)
This was a very nice bush camp - peaceful, airy, and the small hill between me and the road deadened the noise of the overnight lorries somewhat. Bush-crashing creatures are hardly a surprise though they do make one jump at first, given the silence. I had a great campfire too, lots of good firewood nearby, and a nice low hollow a few metres away where the fire would have been hidden from sight. Only negative was the recently-burned bush which gave a nice coating of black over everything, but I managed to wash my hands this morning and just covered my black feet with black socks lol.
I was away at 0830 and the SE-er struck up in front of me right away, and it took over an hour to Pine Creek, just 12km away. Traffic was heavy again, but the landscape is very nice - rocky hills, gently winding and undulating road and a variety of trees thinly spread.
I had a few things to check out at Pine Creek - internet (library only, not open till 1, so no go); cafe (delicious ham salad sandwich), groceries (well, just bread and biscuits to get me to Katherine via Edith Falls) - unfortunately after all that I forgot to top up water bottles, and didn’t remember until I was 5km down the road. I did have 1.5 litres but that wasn’t enough to EF, and there was nowhere to get any in between. Never mind, I’ll manage somehow, I’m certainly not going back for some.
The heavy traffic was pretty tiresome - at least 60% is caravans and motorhomes which are pretty benign, but much of the rest was roadtrains. Ironic that the goods train I saw yesterday heading south had many empty container wagons just begging for some road freight. There is little in the way of a tarmac shoulder on this road but there is good flat gravel mostly, which is no trouble for me with my 2” tyres to ride on.
After around 20km I spotted a car and caravan in a layby so took my opportunity and went to ask them for water. No problem of course, and we had a good chat about places we’d been - this couple were from WA and I knew the places they were referring to - they are going my way so I may see them again. Around 1230 I was ready for a pitstop and looked out for somewhere shady where I could lean the bike - and soon saw a telecomms cabin between the road and railway line which was perfect for the job. I made myself a comfy seat from some pieces of wood and settled down to my peanut butter and apricot jam butties with lovely fresh bread bought in Pine Creek. The flies were the only downside as usual so I tried to sit out in the warm wind as much as possible - they are very determined though. Funny how it’s the face they go for - maybe there are more minerals and vitamins there compared to all the other exposed parts. Recently I have been sat talking to people who seemed not to be bothered by them whilst I was covered, and this must be due to me sweating more from riding.
Since Pine Creek the wind has been kinder to me, it seems to have shifted more to the left side such that it is not in front of me any longer, which adds both to speed and morale, and by 1430 I had reached the left turn for Edith Falls, another 20km to go INTO the wind now, heading due east.
The first 6km were tough and uphill, but therafter easier as the wind started to die off and I got more shelter from rocky outcrops and little rises in the road. The lack of lorries was bliss, things being much more peaceful now. I was soon arriving at the Falls area camping grounds and YES there is a kiosk! ...So iced coffee straight away as a reward for my efforts, and I paid my $8.80 for a nights’ camping. I was given a nice little pitch right next to the kiosk (too near for temptation!!) though not overlooked, and well away from the Wicked Campervanners that I followed in here lol. Only downside was less shade than preferred but never mind.
After setting up I went to look at the falls, and was blown away by the landscape - a circular lake some 600m diameter surrounded by 100m high pinky-brown cliffs and the falls at the far side - breathtakingly beautiful, and with a quiet peacefullness about it that incites awe and a sense of privelege in the beholder. I have seen some amazing landscapes here, and this is definitely one of them. It’s only about 50km from katherine Gorge and there’s a footpath between the 2 sites for the hardy walker - a 3-day or so trip. There are several places where there are steps or platforms to enable access for swimmers, and there were quite a few in the cool water, some swam all the way across to the falls; a bit far for me.
I spent the evening picking out pictures from the camera for the last 10 days - I haven’t uploaded since then and this will save expensive internet time when I get to Katherine; don’t know why I haven’t done this before. There are about 3 days I spent in Darwin when I didn’t take any pics.
After a late dinner, at about 2030, the camp was in darkness and silence and it didn’t take much encouragement for me to have an early night.

DAY 244: Adelaide River to bush camp 12km N of Pine Creek

Tues 24th June 2008
102 km @ 13.5 km/hr
Sunny, 30 deg C
Elevation of destination 162 m
Distance to date 14537 km (9086 miles)
I really should have got an earlier start this morning, since I would like to ride the 202km back to Katherine in 2 days, and the wind is strongly against me, but on a cool early morning the sleeping bag was just too cosy and it was 0915 when I hit the road. I did manage to ring Lyn before I left though, who was glad to hear from me after a long spell with no e-mails. NT is a bit of an internet desert - outside the few big towns it’s difficult - so the blog will just have to wait.
As expected progress was slow with the SE wind fresh to strong right in the face. I wasn’t too pleased to be back in the traffic again either - the Stuart Highway is busy here, and there are lots of road trains to dodge. Weather was good though; I’m getting to like it hot now; 30-33 is perfect riding temperature for me, even going slow and uphill. The flies couldn’t stay on me with the wind direction, but snatched a feed of sweaty nutrients whenever I went through a sheltered cutting. The road wound slowly between and around low red broken mountains, and rose and fell gradually, with one or two longer, steeper climbs. I took these at around 6 or 7 km/hr in the headwind. Scenically, very nice, though partially lost on me as I plodded slowly along.
Hard rides like this are a mental challenge, and one of my strategies is to break the day up into chunks, and reward myself after completing each one.
First bit was the 34km to a rest area, which had table and shade - and another touring cyclist! Glen, from Sydney, came to greet me, having stayed here last night. He’s riding from Sydney to Darwin and then hoping to catch a ride on a boat to Indonesia to start a tour of Asian countries, and hopefully the Himalayas too. We had a good old chat for longer than I intended to stop, but recognising that he and I have a lot in common - he would like to work for a charity like WaterAid for example - I lingered. What a shame we will be living so far apart, but we exchanged details and will keep in touch I hope. His website is www.insearchofsimplicity.wordpress.com, and I look forward to checking it out - Glen has some great ideas about life ‘n stuff.
I dragged myself away knowing I still had a long struggle with the wind yet, and went through a bad patch mentally, not helped by a psychopathic road train driver who clearly didn’t mind killing me, he came so close for no good reason. This got me very angry, and it took a while for me to settle after that. This second stage was to the Hayes Creek roadhouse, where my reward was not only a Barraburger and Snickers bar, but also another touring cyclist! This time it was Oliver, a Frenchman and retired policeman from Lyon, who is cycling from Uluru to Darwin. He is around my age I think, and he’s here for 3 months all told. He spoke good English so I didn’t get a chance to practice my French with him. He had met Glen at Edith Falls, and like Glen said it was very beautiful, so I may pop in for a look before I get to Katherine - the side trip is 20km off the Stuart Highway. Oliver was staying at the CP at Hayes Creek, and I was tempted, but really needed to get more km in today otherwise I’d be forever battling against this wind - I just want to get it over with! So I headed off again.
The next ‘chunk’ was to another roadhouse, however I discovered it has closed down. Luckily I had enough water to wild camp, since I couldn’t reach Pine Creek before dark. The colours deepened as it got later, and if anything this enhances the beauty of this ancient landscape; I always enjoy riding after 5 or so - and there was a bonus since the wind dropped around this time, and my speed nearly doubled. This helped get me over halfway to Katherine, so I was well pleased with that. The sun was down, but still plenty of light, when I found a secluded site hidden from the road my huge rock formations - only trouble was the bush has been burnt here so everything is black - including me now. There is plenty of wood though, and I have a lovely fire going which I don’t think anyone can see, and the smoke is heading away from the road too. It’s gone very quiet now the wind has dropped; the stars are out in force with no moon yet, and there’s the odd rustle of leaved as some unknown creature is moving about near me - ah, the wonders of the bush! And now I’m off to put the billy on, then early night and earlier start tomorrow.

DAY 243: Buley Rockhole to Adelaide River

Mon 23rd June 2008
78km @ 13.3 km/hr
Sunny, 31 deg C
Elevation of destination 46 m
Distance to date 14435 km (9022 miles)

I awoke around 7 and decided to have an early start - Adelaide River against the wind might be slow going, and I wanted to have a look around a few places on the way also. In the cool light of dawn this campsite looked a dry, dusty and dismal place. It was full of backpackers overnight, and they all had campfires, and I could hear the cracking and tearing as they demolished the nearby (living) trees for firewood, this in a protected NP. I have to note that many were British. There was litter all around too, and I tidied as much as I could around my site. No-one came for any money again; that’s 3 free nights in a row.
It was a steady climb out for 3 km then gentle undulations into the SE wind (it used to be my friend lol). After 8km I stopped to look at the thin, flat, N to S oriented magnetic termite mound field, and read the information boards. These magnetic mounds, up to 3 or 4m high and 1 to 2m wide, are so positioned to minimise the sun's heat in the middle of the day, but cathedral termite mounds are round, more volumous, and temperature is less of an issue. Apparently both species need to control body temperature carefully, and this is simple in cathedral mounds, but those in the magnetic mounds have to move to the east of the mound in the morning to ‘warm up’ on the warm, sunny side. It was interesting to read that termites eat more grass than all other grass-eating animals such as cattle, sheep and ‘roos put together!
I plugged on into the headwind, slowed down to single figures regularly as the road wound uphill, but it wasn’t an unpleasant ride in the early warm sunshine. Hundreds of vehicles poured into the NP but there was little going my way i.e. out of the park. I had a couple of close calls where cars wouldn’t wait to get past me, and they duly got the dreaded finger.
I stopped briefly at Litchfield Caravan Park for iced coffee, and by noon was entering the uranium-mining town of Batchelor. I found a nice fresh crusty roll at the roadhouse cafe and sat reading the paper for a pleasant, shady hour, then tried to upload to the blog, to no avail. The internet at the Butterfly Farm was incredibly slow and the mouse was faulty, so I gave up and didn’t pay ($8/hr for that service!!). I called in at the VIC where well-informed volunteer David chatted about route options and other stuff. He recommended the Coach Road to Adelaide River; mostly gravel but very quiet and 12km shorter - and this was good advice. I told him about the 2 feral dogs that came into my camp at Walker Creek, and he thought that they might be formerly illegal pig-hunters dogs that got lost, and then interbred with the dingoes. This makes sense as they were the same colour as the dingo only 50% bigger.
Off on the Coach Road then, south from the town with the airfield on the left, on deserted tarmac for the first 8km before the change to a well-maintained gravel surface. After 7km or so of endless winding and undulating past the odd house and fruit farm the road became a narrow track. The quaity deteriorated somewhat but was very enjoyable nonetheless. I only saw a handful of vehicles all the way to Adelaide River, and the road twisted and turned all over the place through nice Savannah forest; sometimes the track almost disappeared from view, and I had to check a few times that I was still on the right road by means of the PDA maps and GPS receiver - this shows me where I am on the 250,000:1 Austour map. Thus reassured, I could relax and enjoy this trip through some very wild and remote country - this is a great route for cyclists; much preferable to the windy and busy highway route. The track was only slightly corrugated with a couple of short sandy patches and quite a bit of stone - all can be worked around with a little care.
For the last 90 minutes I saw no other vehicles, and I landed in Adelaide River just 1km from the caravan park. I need a CP tonight since I need a good shower and somewhere to wash some clothes, and also to charge depleted batteries, after 4 nights wild camping. I plumped for the $15 roadhouse / hotel park, which has welcoming green grass = luxury! Also plenty of temptations too - beer, chocolate, barra and chips etc., however I was camped quite near to the unfenced highway and didn’t fancy leaving all the stuff behind, so I cooked another delicious rice dish, and followed up with a couple of beers and bar of chocolate from the roadhouse.
When I first arrived at the roadhouse, hot from the road, I had a nice surprise - A couple asked me was I ever in Smokey Bay in SA - and I affirmed; turns out they recognised me from last November, when they were staying there same night as me! She remembers talking to me in the campers kitchen, and I was only vaguely aware that I’d seen them before. I forget his name, but she is Kate - I gave them my card and it would be lovely to hear from them. They haven’t been on the road since then, but are up here on another holiday - what a coincidence, and what good recognition skills!

DAY 242: Walker Creek to Buley Rockhole

Sun 22nd June 2008
58km @ 13.2 km/hr
Cloudy, sunny later, 31 deg C
Elevation of destination 130 m
Distance to date 14435 km (9022 miles)

The canine gatecrashers didn’t return, and I had a peaceful night. I decided to move on, and slowly packed up; however I couldn’t find my 3 bungee straps that hold my tent on the rear rack. I must have left them back on the path in, and though I went back to look, they weren’t there. I did have a spare luckily, and a few small ones, that will just have to do for now. I carried the bags and bike separately back to where I could fit them back onto the bike (across the waterfall and up some steep steps lol), and was out onto the road by 1030, and straight into a 1km 9% hill. Today’s ride was very nice, twisty, hilly road bordered by cycad palm forest and red rocky outcrops.
Unfortunately I had yet another puncture after just 7km, and it was on the only patch on the tube again. Was it another duff patch or something sticking in the tyre at that same point? I fitted another tube and also put a thick patch inside the tyre at that point, and it was OK after that, although of course I don’t know whether it’s the tube or tyre now do I?!
I stopped to look at the spectacular Wangi Falls, and had an egg and bacon roll and 2 iced coffees from the welcome kiosk. I was offered a sandwich by a couple sat nearby, which I gratefully accepted, and recounted my adventures yet again. During the next few hours I dropped in at Green Ant Creek (beautiful), Tolmer Falls (80m falls drop into huge canyon, nice), Tabletop Swamp (no birds) and Florence Falls (dramatic). There was a NP campsite at the latter, where I had intended to stay, but it was full so I’ll have to wait a bit longer for a shower. I carried on to Buley Rockhole, which isn’t the best of campsites, but had to do as it was late. After setting up I still had time to go for a dip in the plunge pool - cold water and cold on getting out - but very refreshing.
Today’s ride was excellent; quiet road; some shade, interesting scenery - great. There are 3 x 9% (or so) hills on today’s stretch, all around 1km long. Hardly French Alps....