Wednesday, March 26, 2008
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DAY 153: Ayr to Townsville then Magnetic Island
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95 km at 17.3 km/hr
Tue 25th March 2008
Distance to date 9322 km (5826 miles)
Hot / sunny intervals
After saying adieu to Jacob and Honorata (we may well meet again) I hit the road before 8, and was pleased to see that the traffic was lightish. Once again the landscape was pleasant enough with isolated, wooded, hills dotted all around and as far as the horizon. Not such a good shoulder today for at least half the ride, and the traffic built up later and became a nuisance again. I mostly got a wide berth though. I had been interested in the 'warning pole’ that Jacob and Honorata had employed sticking out horizontally some 800mm at the back of their bikes - they reckoned traffic always gave them a wide berth as a result. As it happened I spotted a car aerial on the shoulder and picked it up with a view to doing the same myself. They have little yellow flags on the end of the poles so I’d need something similar if I went ahead with this.
There’s a roadhouse at around 35km from Bowen and another at some 70km, but I only stopped at the first, for a Devonshire Tea as it happened (with spray-on cream; yeucchhh). Before I hit the second place I had already stopped in a shady bus shelter and taken 20 minutes rest and snack.
I’d no idea what time it was as my watch has packed in - since I wore it in the shower by mistake lol - but it must have been around 3 when I arrived in Townsville. What kind of a name is that? Town’s Town?? Hmmmm. It’s a big place with a huge pedestrianised shopping area, but not very tourist-orientated apparently. I had planned to spend a night here and then do a bit of shopping but last night Jacob was talking about Magnetic Island which is just a few km offshore from Townsville, and it sounded quite nice. I learn’t there was a boat at 1545 so I decided to get it - I can always do my shopping on the way back through the city. I’d also seen a brochure about Bungalow Bay Koala Village on the island which sounded good - it fringes the National Park and is full of birds and wildlife it seems - and there’s a YHA Hostel and cheapish camping there too.
I duly cycled to the pier and bought a return ticket for $26.50 (£11), and half an hour later we were docking in Nelly Bay. Just as well as the scores of schoolkids coming home to the island from school in Townsville were running riot all over the boat - what a racket!! By now the sky was blue and it was a beautiful sunny day, so the island, the beaches and the blue sea looked idyllic, a real tropical paradise. The lady in the VIC in Townsville had thought it was 16km from Nelly Bay to Bungalow Bay but as it turned out it was only 7; mind you over 1km of that was a VERY steep climb over 15% in places, and I was crawling along at 4 km/hr on a very hot and humid afternoon for a while, but then the 2km descent made up for it and all was forgiven. And there wasn’t much traffic on this 15km or so long island, and NO lorries. There are lots of Mini Mokes though which are for hire here. The Koala Village is a very nice place, shady rainforest camping sites, $12.50/night camping, lots of birds making lots of noise (including hundreds of screaming Lorikeets) and possums wandering around all over the place looking for grub (humans=food). There’s a nice camp kitchen too with everything one needs, and a good-sized pool. I decided to stay at least 2 nights as there is also lots to see around the island - beautiful beaches, rainforest walks etc.
I have booked a special ‘Bush Tucker Gourmet Breakfast’ for tomorrow which was a bit expensive, but sounds delicious - more about this tomorrow, and this includes a 2-hour tour of the adjacent Koala centre at 10.
After setting up the tent, just before dusk, I cycled down 400m to Horseshoe Bay and couldn’t resist going for a swim - there is a stinger net here so I could splash about in safety. Jacob was telling me that a sting from one of these poisonous jellyfish (like the deadly Box Jellyfish) can be fatal in minutes if you are stung on the middle of the body, so I kept my cycling top and shorts on just in case. He reckons a sting leaves you scarred for life with whiplash-type marks - if you survive the ordeal that is. The water was very warm and there’s no hint of a shudder as the water hits your body. It was so relaxing floating around and watching the sun slip behind the white craggy cliffs at the end of the bay - mmmm! Shangri-la.
I braved some 30 others in the camp kitchen to cook my spag-tuna concoction then sat and chatted with a German couple and a young Frenchman. A one-eyed possum came begging by the table and I was able to stroke it, but next thing it was actually on the table and trying to get into the bag containing my bread. Just as I was typing that last sentence a possum (same one maybe) tried to get the bread again which was inside my tent close to the entry flap; hope it doesn’t do any damage to tent or bags.
There’s just been a chorus of whistling by birds unseen too - dozens of them whisltling a single long note in chorus - not heard that before and not sure what they are, I’ll try and find out tomorrow. I think they may be Catbirds come to think of it.
Tue 25th March 2008
Distance to date 9322 km (5826 miles)
Hot / sunny intervals
After saying adieu to Jacob and Honorata (we may well meet again) I hit the road before 8, and was pleased to see that the traffic was lightish. Once again the landscape was pleasant enough with isolated, wooded, hills dotted all around and as far as the horizon. Not such a good shoulder today for at least half the ride, and the traffic built up later and became a nuisance again. I mostly got a wide berth though. I had been interested in the 'warning pole’ that Jacob and Honorata had employed sticking out horizontally some 800mm at the back of their bikes - they reckoned traffic always gave them a wide berth as a result. As it happened I spotted a car aerial on the shoulder and picked it up with a view to doing the same myself. They have little yellow flags on the end of the poles so I’d need something similar if I went ahead with this.
There’s a roadhouse at around 35km from Bowen and another at some 70km, but I only stopped at the first, for a Devonshire Tea as it happened (with spray-on cream; yeucchhh). Before I hit the second place I had already stopped in a shady bus shelter and taken 20 minutes rest and snack.
I’d no idea what time it was as my watch has packed in - since I wore it in the shower by mistake lol - but it must have been around 3 when I arrived in Townsville. What kind of a name is that? Town’s Town?? Hmmmm. It’s a big place with a huge pedestrianised shopping area, but not very tourist-orientated apparently. I had planned to spend a night here and then do a bit of shopping but last night Jacob was talking about Magnetic Island which is just a few km offshore from Townsville, and it sounded quite nice. I learn’t there was a boat at 1545 so I decided to get it - I can always do my shopping on the way back through the city. I’d also seen a brochure about Bungalow Bay Koala Village on the island which sounded good - it fringes the National Park and is full of birds and wildlife it seems - and there’s a YHA Hostel and cheapish camping there too.
I duly cycled to the pier and bought a return ticket for $26.50 (£11), and half an hour later we were docking in Nelly Bay. Just as well as the scores of schoolkids coming home to the island from school in Townsville were running riot all over the boat - what a racket!! By now the sky was blue and it was a beautiful sunny day, so the island, the beaches and the blue sea looked idyllic, a real tropical paradise. The lady in the VIC in Townsville had thought it was 16km from Nelly Bay to Bungalow Bay but as it turned out it was only 7; mind you over 1km of that was a VERY steep climb over 15% in places, and I was crawling along at 4 km/hr on a very hot and humid afternoon for a while, but then the 2km descent made up for it and all was forgiven. And there wasn’t much traffic on this 15km or so long island, and NO lorries. There are lots of Mini Mokes though which are for hire here. The Koala Village is a very nice place, shady rainforest camping sites, $12.50/night camping, lots of birds making lots of noise (including hundreds of screaming Lorikeets) and possums wandering around all over the place looking for grub (humans=food). There’s a nice camp kitchen too with everything one needs, and a good-sized pool. I decided to stay at least 2 nights as there is also lots to see around the island - beautiful beaches, rainforest walks etc.
I have booked a special ‘Bush Tucker Gourmet Breakfast’ for tomorrow which was a bit expensive, but sounds delicious - more about this tomorrow, and this includes a 2-hour tour of the adjacent Koala centre at 10.
After setting up the tent, just before dusk, I cycled down 400m to Horseshoe Bay and couldn’t resist going for a swim - there is a stinger net here so I could splash about in safety. Jacob was telling me that a sting from one of these poisonous jellyfish (like the deadly Box Jellyfish) can be fatal in minutes if you are stung on the middle of the body, so I kept my cycling top and shorts on just in case. He reckons a sting leaves you scarred for life with whiplash-type marks - if you survive the ordeal that is. The water was very warm and there’s no hint of a shudder as the water hits your body. It was so relaxing floating around and watching the sun slip behind the white craggy cliffs at the end of the bay - mmmm! Shangri-la.
I braved some 30 others in the camp kitchen to cook my spag-tuna concoction then sat and chatted with a German couple and a young Frenchman. A one-eyed possum came begging by the table and I was able to stroke it, but next thing it was actually on the table and trying to get into the bag containing my bread. Just as I was typing that last sentence a possum (same one maybe) tried to get the bread again which was inside my tent close to the entry flap; hope it doesn’t do any damage to tent or bags.
There’s just been a chorus of whistling by birds unseen too - dozens of them whisltling a single long note in chorus - not heard that before and not sure what they are, I’ll try and find out tomorrow. I think they may be Catbirds come to think of it.
DAY 152: Bowen to Ayr
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115 km at 19.9 km/hr
Mon 24th March 2008
Distance to date 9227 km (5767 miles)
Hot / sunny
I had trouble getting to sleep due to some neighbours talking loudly until very late, but felt OK this morning anyway. I was away soon after 8 on what seemed likely to be a hot sunny day, and indeed it was just that. Traffic was pretty heavy from the start, presumably folk returning to Townsville after the Easter weekend; happily there were few lorries, and a decent width of shoulder most of the way.
Scenically the ride was good; wooded mountains looming up all over the place and although the land has been cleared in the past natural vegetation seems to be making a comeback in between the mountains. I saw a lot more of the birds of prey that I thought were Black Kites, and occasional flurries of Black Cockatoos - big, foolish, noisy and lovable birds. I got a lot of toots on the road again, and one long hoot from a freight train - the line runs next to the highway.
I had been told that the first ‘services’ were at 50km, and this was exactly right - that’s the first time a woman’s given the correct estimate of distance in my recollection (oops) - and I enjoyed a litre of Gatorade, having resisted the usual iced coffee. The roadhouse had a copy of the camping sites details book that I should have bought at the start, and I thought of buying it, but it’s probably not worth it now; it’s $55 and pretty heavy; anyway I have some good info from Cairns on in the “Cycling Outback Australia” book which I already have.
At 80km I was feeling tired and the ‘sores’ were bothersome, so I stopped at the only rest area on this section and stretched out for a while, and felt much better for it. At 95km there was another roadhouse so an iced coffee was my reward, and I was surprised and delighted to see 2 other touring cyclists there. This was Jacob (originally from Brisbane now living in the Gold Coast) and partner Honorata, originally from Poland. They are cycling around Australia too, the same way as me, though giving themselves 18 months compared to my 12, taking in the Cape York track too which I won’t be doing. They started at the Gold Coast a few weeks ago. It was great to chat and compare notes, but eventually it was time for me to move on and get the long day finished. The last 20km was less enjoyable with little shoulder for most of the way, and a long bridge without anywhere for cyclists to go to contend with, however it soon passed and after a bit of food shopping at Home Hill I rolled into Ayr. I hovered around a bit hoping to see Jacob and Honorata and whilst in Macdonald’s (purely in the interests of research you understand) I saw them pass, heading towards the CP. Later I saw they were checking in there so I did the same. I couldn’t be bothered cooking so went out for chicken and chips and a few beers, then ate it back at the tent chatting to my new friends. The last few weeks have been very sociable one way or another. It is very humid tonight and I’m sat typing this up in just my trunks, sweat is pouring off me. Yesterday I did my washing in the morning and hung it out to dry straight away, however even though it didn’t rain it wasn’t dry by this morning - big difference to South Australia where stuff dried in a couple of hours. This humidity will hopefully lessen though as the wet season ends ‘any time now’. It usualy coold down OK during the night.
Mon 24th March 2008
Distance to date 9227 km (5767 miles)
Hot / sunny
I had trouble getting to sleep due to some neighbours talking loudly until very late, but felt OK this morning anyway. I was away soon after 8 on what seemed likely to be a hot sunny day, and indeed it was just that. Traffic was pretty heavy from the start, presumably folk returning to Townsville after the Easter weekend; happily there were few lorries, and a decent width of shoulder most of the way.
Scenically the ride was good; wooded mountains looming up all over the place and although the land has been cleared in the past natural vegetation seems to be making a comeback in between the mountains. I saw a lot more of the birds of prey that I thought were Black Kites, and occasional flurries of Black Cockatoos - big, foolish, noisy and lovable birds. I got a lot of toots on the road again, and one long hoot from a freight train - the line runs next to the highway.
I had been told that the first ‘services’ were at 50km, and this was exactly right - that’s the first time a woman’s given the correct estimate of distance in my recollection (oops) - and I enjoyed a litre of Gatorade, having resisted the usual iced coffee. The roadhouse had a copy of the camping sites details book that I should have bought at the start, and I thought of buying it, but it’s probably not worth it now; it’s $55 and pretty heavy; anyway I have some good info from Cairns on in the “Cycling Outback Australia” book which I already have.
At 80km I was feeling tired and the ‘sores’ were bothersome, so I stopped at the only rest area on this section and stretched out for a while, and felt much better for it. At 95km there was another roadhouse so an iced coffee was my reward, and I was surprised and delighted to see 2 other touring cyclists there. This was Jacob (originally from Brisbane now living in the Gold Coast) and partner Honorata, originally from Poland. They are cycling around Australia too, the same way as me, though giving themselves 18 months compared to my 12, taking in the Cape York track too which I won’t be doing. They started at the Gold Coast a few weeks ago. It was great to chat and compare notes, but eventually it was time for me to move on and get the long day finished. The last 20km was less enjoyable with little shoulder for most of the way, and a long bridge without anywhere for cyclists to go to contend with, however it soon passed and after a bit of food shopping at Home Hill I rolled into Ayr. I hovered around a bit hoping to see Jacob and Honorata and whilst in Macdonald’s (purely in the interests of research you understand) I saw them pass, heading towards the CP. Later I saw they were checking in there so I did the same. I couldn’t be bothered cooking so went out for chicken and chips and a few beers, then ate it back at the tent chatting to my new friends. The last few weeks have been very sociable one way or another. It is very humid tonight and I’m sat typing this up in just my trunks, sweat is pouring off me. Yesterday I did my washing in the morning and hung it out to dry straight away, however even though it didn’t rain it wasn’t dry by this morning - big difference to South Australia where stuff dried in a couple of hours. This humidity will hopefully lessen though as the wet season ends ‘any time now’. It usualy coold down OK during the night.
DAY 151: Bush camp to Bowen
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47 km at 14.9 km/hr
Sun 223rd March 2008
Distance to date 9112 km (5695 miles)
Very warm / sunny
My bush camp proved a good choice - quiet, undisturbed, but also beautiful - I didn’t fit the outer tent so could see the stars and moon through the inner’s mesh; moreover the full moon lit the surrounding area so that the lake and trees all showed up with a silver hue all night (there was no cloud cover). I woke up a few times briefly and noted that the moon was moving in line with the axis of the tent (east to west), as was the constellation Orion. It was all very pleasant.
Packing up was quick as I hadn’t got much stuff out last night, so I was away or 7. The road was pretty quiet and it was mostly just me and a few Black Cockatoos and raptors that might be Black Kites - clearly not the Wedge-Tailed Eagles I thought they were at first. The eagle is surely much bigger?!
The wind had dropped for the time being and it was a little uphill so I had to work harder, and even when I started to come into Bowen the road turned to the east, into the rising SE-er. It was still only a little after 8 so I spent the morning touring around the very nice beaches around the Bowen coast. I took a pic of the roadside billboard stating what the penalties were for vandalism and graffiti - interesting.
First of all I had a look at Queen’s Beach, which has a stinger net fitted - this is a net designed to excluse stingers - several different species of poisonous jellyfish - so that you can swim in safety. I watched a lady with three dogs as she turned a blind eye to the largest of the dogs defecating in the sand of this netted section, and I pointed to where the dog had done this when she turned around but she ignored me, and left the poo for some child to wallow in. I’m surprised dogs are even allowed on this section of beach, as they are banned from most bathing beaches at risk of heavy fines. I noted 2 caravan parks in this area, and not least a pub that sells draught Guinness - mmm! Maybe later. Next I rode the 4km around Queen’s Bay to Gray’s Bay and Horseshoe Bay - the latter is shown in the pic(s) and is beautiful. I dived in for a swim with cycling shorts and long-sleeved top on as there was no stinger net, although there were many people in there with less on than me. I thing the stinger risk is decreasing as summer comes to an end and the water cools a little (from 25 to 20 deg C lol), but I wasn’t taking unnecessary risks - the stings are supposed to be excrutiatingly painful. Vinegar is the best pain killer apparently (applied to the site of injury; not drank!). I also had a look at Rose Bay - up a steep hill and down again - before heading back to Queen’s Beach to check in at the Wangaratta CP (opposite the pub with the Guinness lol).
Having seen most of the delights of Bowen I spent the afternoon doing washing and servicing the transmission i.e. Washing the chain, adjusting chain tension etc. A couple came over to speak about the ride - the lady was a keen cyclist and wanted to do a big ride like this so was interested in all the relevant issues. The guy gave me a hand to try and undo one of the 5 chainring screws which was all turniung, but to no avail - there must be a special tool for this, and I’ll get a bikeshop to undo for me - I want to turn the ring around so it wears evenly and lasts longer.
Around 6 I went over for my Guinness treat, but unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately) as I started my second pint they started to close the place so I had to rush it a bit - hmmmm - still, it was very well kept and tasted just as good as at home. I decided to have dinner at the cafe next door, and did a bit of e-mailing whilst at it. Later whilst talking to some neighbours I got badly bitten by mozzies on the foot - that’ll teach me to remember to put repellent on every night.
All in all a very enjoyable and productive day; tomorrow it’s back onto the Bruce Highway and a 2-day ride to Townsville. I’m told this is a very industrial place and not very interesting, so I may not stay there long, but I’ll see.
Sun 223rd March 2008
Distance to date 9112 km (5695 miles)
Very warm / sunny
My bush camp proved a good choice - quiet, undisturbed, but also beautiful - I didn’t fit the outer tent so could see the stars and moon through the inner’s mesh; moreover the full moon lit the surrounding area so that the lake and trees all showed up with a silver hue all night (there was no cloud cover). I woke up a few times briefly and noted that the moon was moving in line with the axis of the tent (east to west), as was the constellation Orion. It was all very pleasant.
Packing up was quick as I hadn’t got much stuff out last night, so I was away or 7. The road was pretty quiet and it was mostly just me and a few Black Cockatoos and raptors that might be Black Kites - clearly not the Wedge-Tailed Eagles I thought they were at first. The eagle is surely much bigger?!
The wind had dropped for the time being and it was a little uphill so I had to work harder, and even when I started to come into Bowen the road turned to the east, into the rising SE-er. It was still only a little after 8 so I spent the morning touring around the very nice beaches around the Bowen coast. I took a pic of the roadside billboard stating what the penalties were for vandalism and graffiti - interesting.
First of all I had a look at Queen’s Beach, which has a stinger net fitted - this is a net designed to excluse stingers - several different species of poisonous jellyfish - so that you can swim in safety. I watched a lady with three dogs as she turned a blind eye to the largest of the dogs defecating in the sand of this netted section, and I pointed to where the dog had done this when she turned around but she ignored me, and left the poo for some child to wallow in. I’m surprised dogs are even allowed on this section of beach, as they are banned from most bathing beaches at risk of heavy fines. I noted 2 caravan parks in this area, and not least a pub that sells draught Guinness - mmm! Maybe later. Next I rode the 4km around Queen’s Bay to Gray’s Bay and Horseshoe Bay - the latter is shown in the pic(s) and is beautiful. I dived in for a swim with cycling shorts and long-sleeved top on as there was no stinger net, although there were many people in there with less on than me. I thing the stinger risk is decreasing as summer comes to an end and the water cools a little (from 25 to 20 deg C lol), but I wasn’t taking unnecessary risks - the stings are supposed to be excrutiatingly painful. Vinegar is the best pain killer apparently (applied to the site of injury; not drank!). I also had a look at Rose Bay - up a steep hill and down again - before heading back to Queen’s Beach to check in at the Wangaratta CP (opposite the pub with the Guinness lol).
Having seen most of the delights of Bowen I spent the afternoon doing washing and servicing the transmission i.e. Washing the chain, adjusting chain tension etc. A couple came over to speak about the ride - the lady was a keen cyclist and wanted to do a big ride like this so was interested in all the relevant issues. The guy gave me a hand to try and undo one of the 5 chainring screws which was all turniung, but to no avail - there must be a special tool for this, and I’ll get a bikeshop to undo for me - I want to turn the ring around so it wears evenly and lasts longer.
Around 6 I went over for my Guinness treat, but unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately) as I started my second pint they started to close the place so I had to rush it a bit - hmmmm - still, it was very well kept and tasted just as good as at home. I decided to have dinner at the cafe next door, and did a bit of e-mailing whilst at it. Later whilst talking to some neighbours I got badly bitten by mozzies on the foot - that’ll teach me to remember to put repellent on every night.
All in all a very enjoyable and productive day; tomorrow it’s back onto the Bruce Highway and a 2-day ride to Townsville. I’m told this is a very industrial place and not very interesting, so I may not stay there long, but I’ll see.
DAY 150: O’Connell River CP to Bush camp 15km S of Bowen
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108 km at 17.9 km/hr
Sat 22nd March 2008
Distance to date 9065 km (5666 miles)
Very warm / sunny
Despite another noisy group making a nuisance of themselves I fell asleep without much trouble, once they had gone to bed it was utterly silent apart from the odd vehicle on the highway. Norm and I shared breakfast again and I then set off for Proserpine as I had a lot to do there. It’s only 21km and with a strong tailwind as usual it only took 1 hour. Unfortunately the VIC didn’t open until 10 but no big deal as I mainly want to know where there’s an internet place, however I soon found one and spent well over an hour uploading. I hadn’t been able to upload pics at Peter’s because we couldn’t work out how to get the Apple Mac take just a few images into a folder rather than dump all 650 images onto his computer first. This was the first time I had used one of these machines and it took some getting used to - I had to keep asking dumb questions to do simple things I’d been doing for years on a PC. I finished at the intertnet place just as they were about to close, and then went over to IGA to top up my food stores.
I rode out of town (I think Norm intended to go and see the Whitsunday Islands) thinking I would just ride the 64km or so straight to Bowen from here and as I have said previously, not bother detouring to Airlie Beach / Whitsundays, however when I got to the Airlie junction my mind did some kind of flip and I took the detour anyway! Weird - almost as if something was compelling me to go this other way. Anyhow I thought I would just ride the 26km to Airlie Beach, have a look, and then ride back to Prosepine again - in the back of my mind i fancied dining at the Irish pub there and have a couple of pints of draft Guiness, which I like. The best laid plans can fail though of course, and frequently do.
The Airlie road was quite busy but there is a good shoulder so no worries. As was the case yesterday I got lots of toots from motorists - why so many all of a sudden? Perhaps it’s the sight of my bare arse through the now-threadbare but still very comfortable Assos shorts! Or do I look like a woman from the rear? He he.... Some 8km from Airlie Beach I noticed a road off to the left signposted for Bowen - i hadn’t been aware of this and had thought I’d have to return to Proserpine to pick up the highway north again. I must read my maps more thoroughly. That opened up new options for onward travel.
As I entered the bustling and yes, yuppiefied, resort I moved onto the Millenium path (for walkers and cyclists) and was able to go right across the town this way. It is a very pretty place with it’s sandy beaches and clear blue seas, but I’ve seen prettier - at Esperance in WA or Venus Bay on the Ayre Peninsular for example. And it was just teeming with people - mostly skimpily-clad young females sunbathing in the parks and thousands of sprogs running everywhere - yeugghhhhh! (To the kids that is; don’t mind the SCF’s! I had a look around and took a few pics for posterity, then queued for a Baskin-Robbins 2-scoop ice cream sundae, and as I was eating same an Australian guy (ex-Korean) struck up a nice conversation, and seemed quite inspired to do a ride himself, which has been on his mind for a while it seems. The ice cream was very good, but I then needed lots of fluid to slake the consequent thirst. It was turned 3 now so I headed back out of town the way I had come in, with the intention of returning to Proserpine and the Irish Pub. Strangely once more, I changed this plan and turned right onto the road signposted Bowen, even though I knew it was unlikely there’d be anywhere to stay other than the side of the road.
This road actually runs for 13km to the Bruce Highway at a point 13km north of Proserpine. It wasn’t too busy and there was a good shoulder. I guess I saved 15km overall by taking this route. It is pretty flat, mostly farmland. Once back on the Highway (54km to Bowen from here) it was all flat; good shoulder; sugar cane then changing to rough cattle grazing. Time and again I spooked the cattle, mostly Brahmin crosses, and they thundered away from me in their hundreds the cowards. I went off the road a few times to look for a suitable camp site but none of them felt good, and it was now 1830 and almost dark when I spotted a lake to the left and a wide area of land away from the road, so I turned off to have a look without being seen. It was perfect, I couldn’t be seen from the road but I might be seen if someo ne drove down the track I entered on, but I’m sure no-one would mind anyhow if they did come across me. It is something of an emergency - I didn’t feel very safe on the highway in the dark even with lights.
As it doesn’t look like rain I’m sleeping with the outer off i.e. Just under the mesh. It’s lovely and cool with the gentle wind blowing through the mesh, There’s a full moon so the lake and the grassland around me are bathed in silvery light. The cicadas are at it in the trees around me and there are one or two wee frogs hopping past the tent occasionally. The Highway is getting quieter (at 9) with only one vehicle every couple of minutes. Here’s hoping for a quiet night.
Sat 22nd March 2008
Distance to date 9065 km (5666 miles)
Very warm / sunny
Despite another noisy group making a nuisance of themselves I fell asleep without much trouble, once they had gone to bed it was utterly silent apart from the odd vehicle on the highway. Norm and I shared breakfast again and I then set off for Proserpine as I had a lot to do there. It’s only 21km and with a strong tailwind as usual it only took 1 hour. Unfortunately the VIC didn’t open until 10 but no big deal as I mainly want to know where there’s an internet place, however I soon found one and spent well over an hour uploading. I hadn’t been able to upload pics at Peter’s because we couldn’t work out how to get the Apple Mac take just a few images into a folder rather than dump all 650 images onto his computer first. This was the first time I had used one of these machines and it took some getting used to - I had to keep asking dumb questions to do simple things I’d been doing for years on a PC. I finished at the intertnet place just as they were about to close, and then went over to IGA to top up my food stores.
I rode out of town (I think Norm intended to go and see the Whitsunday Islands) thinking I would just ride the 64km or so straight to Bowen from here and as I have said previously, not bother detouring to Airlie Beach / Whitsundays, however when I got to the Airlie junction my mind did some kind of flip and I took the detour anyway! Weird - almost as if something was compelling me to go this other way. Anyhow I thought I would just ride the 26km to Airlie Beach, have a look, and then ride back to Prosepine again - in the back of my mind i fancied dining at the Irish pub there and have a couple of pints of draft Guiness, which I like. The best laid plans can fail though of course, and frequently do.
The Airlie road was quite busy but there is a good shoulder so no worries. As was the case yesterday I got lots of toots from motorists - why so many all of a sudden? Perhaps it’s the sight of my bare arse through the now-threadbare but still very comfortable Assos shorts! Or do I look like a woman from the rear? He he.... Some 8km from Airlie Beach I noticed a road off to the left signposted for Bowen - i hadn’t been aware of this and had thought I’d have to return to Proserpine to pick up the highway north again. I must read my maps more thoroughly. That opened up new options for onward travel.
As I entered the bustling and yes, yuppiefied, resort I moved onto the Millenium path (for walkers and cyclists) and was able to go right across the town this way. It is a very pretty place with it’s sandy beaches and clear blue seas, but I’ve seen prettier - at Esperance in WA or Venus Bay on the Ayre Peninsular for example. And it was just teeming with people - mostly skimpily-clad young females sunbathing in the parks and thousands of sprogs running everywhere - yeugghhhhh! (To the kids that is; don’t mind the SCF’s! I had a look around and took a few pics for posterity, then queued for a Baskin-Robbins 2-scoop ice cream sundae, and as I was eating same an Australian guy (ex-Korean) struck up a nice conversation, and seemed quite inspired to do a ride himself, which has been on his mind for a while it seems. The ice cream was very good, but I then needed lots of fluid to slake the consequent thirst. It was turned 3 now so I headed back out of town the way I had come in, with the intention of returning to Proserpine and the Irish Pub. Strangely once more, I changed this plan and turned right onto the road signposted Bowen, even though I knew it was unlikely there’d be anywhere to stay other than the side of the road.
This road actually runs for 13km to the Bruce Highway at a point 13km north of Proserpine. It wasn’t too busy and there was a good shoulder. I guess I saved 15km overall by taking this route. It is pretty flat, mostly farmland. Once back on the Highway (54km to Bowen from here) it was all flat; good shoulder; sugar cane then changing to rough cattle grazing. Time and again I spooked the cattle, mostly Brahmin crosses, and they thundered away from me in their hundreds the cowards. I went off the road a few times to look for a suitable camp site but none of them felt good, and it was now 1830 and almost dark when I spotted a lake to the left and a wide area of land away from the road, so I turned off to have a look without being seen. It was perfect, I couldn’t be seen from the road but I might be seen if someo ne drove down the track I entered on, but I’m sure no-one would mind anyhow if they did come across me. It is something of an emergency - I didn’t feel very safe on the highway in the dark even with lights.
As it doesn’t look like rain I’m sleeping with the outer off i.e. Just under the mesh. It’s lovely and cool with the gentle wind blowing through the mesh, There’s a full moon so the lake and the grassland around me are bathed in silvery light. The cicadas are at it in the trees around me and there are one or two wee frogs hopping past the tent occasionally. The Highway is getting quieter (at 9) with only one vehicle every couple of minutes. Here’s hoping for a quiet night.
Saturday, March 22, 2008
DAY 149: Cape Hillsborough to O'Connel River CP
84 km at 18.0 km/hr
Fri 21st March 2008
Distance to date 8957 km (5598 miles)
Very warm / sunny
The Kookaburras were very vociferous indeed at dawn this fine morning, and they made sure everyone was up early - thanks guys (but I forgive your enthusiasm)! One came and sat on a branch right over our heads as we had breakfast, hoping to share I expect. I went and sat on the beach and absorbed the idyllic tropical scene for a while as Norm finished packing - this is a beautiful place indeed, Lyn would have loved it. The tide goes out a long way here, and at some 7m these are some of the highest tides in Oz, but it happened to be high tide at this time, the gentle waves quietly lapping on the sand.
We rolled out of camp at around 9 and enjoyed quiet roads to Seaforth where we topped up our water bottles, before returning 2km back down the road to the right turn onto the Mount Ossa road. This runs for 15km to connect to the Bruce Highway for northbound travellers like us, and although the first 8km is gravel it’s in pretty good condition. The Highway itself was fairly busy but with tourists more predominant than lorries, which were few on this bank holiday of Good Friday.
We stopped for a break at noon at a roadhouse and my sausage roll was returned as it was utterly inedible - hard and dried-out; disgusting. A little further down the road Norm disappeared from my rear-view mirror and I went back to find him mending a puncture in his little Bob trailer wheel. The tube was repaired easily enough, but the little metal splinter we could feel sticking inwards took about 20 minutes to dig out as it was so tiny and well-embedded in the tyre. It may have been a piece of tyre steel core from the many pieces of shredded tyre found on the shoulder. While we were doing this a really nice young couple stopped to chat with us - they also have done some touring on bikes in Alaska and were interested in what we were doing.
Underway again, we slowed down somewhat as the road bent to the north and east and put the SE wind on our right side. It was pretty hot too, pushing 30 I’d say, and we were glad to top up water again at a filling station, not to mention some Rocky Road and ice-cold Gatorade reviver. We got a toot from a train driver hauling cattle (pic) and ploughed on towards Proserpine, starting to think about where to camp - neither of us was keen to pay big-town caravan park prices unless really necessary.
As it happened we soon came upon a CP in a very nice location by the O’Connel River, and we were only charged $6 each for the privilege! There was a pool here too so once the tent was up I cooled off for half an hour before dinner. A fellow camper gave us a fish he had caught and cooked (Bream) which was kind and which we added to the spag concoction. Afterwards Norm blagged or bought a couple of beers from someone so we had a wee drink and blather on the dark riverbank with unseen fish splashing around below us.
I think I will give the Whitsunday Islands a miss - it’s a 40km detour each way plus I would have to leave the bike somewhere if going over on the ferry for a day tour, which I’m not keen to do. If I don’t do the WI’s I will probably try and make Bowen tomorrow, which seems like a nice place from what I’ve been told.
Fri 21st March 2008
Distance to date 8957 km (5598 miles)
Very warm / sunny
The Kookaburras were very vociferous indeed at dawn this fine morning, and they made sure everyone was up early - thanks guys (but I forgive your enthusiasm)! One came and sat on a branch right over our heads as we had breakfast, hoping to share I expect. I went and sat on the beach and absorbed the idyllic tropical scene for a while as Norm finished packing - this is a beautiful place indeed, Lyn would have loved it. The tide goes out a long way here, and at some 7m these are some of the highest tides in Oz, but it happened to be high tide at this time, the gentle waves quietly lapping on the sand.
We rolled out of camp at around 9 and enjoyed quiet roads to Seaforth where we topped up our water bottles, before returning 2km back down the road to the right turn onto the Mount Ossa road. This runs for 15km to connect to the Bruce Highway for northbound travellers like us, and although the first 8km is gravel it’s in pretty good condition. The Highway itself was fairly busy but with tourists more predominant than lorries, which were few on this bank holiday of Good Friday.
We stopped for a break at noon at a roadhouse and my sausage roll was returned as it was utterly inedible - hard and dried-out; disgusting. A little further down the road Norm disappeared from my rear-view mirror and I went back to find him mending a puncture in his little Bob trailer wheel. The tube was repaired easily enough, but the little metal splinter we could feel sticking inwards took about 20 minutes to dig out as it was so tiny and well-embedded in the tyre. It may have been a piece of tyre steel core from the many pieces of shredded tyre found on the shoulder. While we were doing this a really nice young couple stopped to chat with us - they also have done some touring on bikes in Alaska and were interested in what we were doing.
Underway again, we slowed down somewhat as the road bent to the north and east and put the SE wind on our right side. It was pretty hot too, pushing 30 I’d say, and we were glad to top up water again at a filling station, not to mention some Rocky Road and ice-cold Gatorade reviver. We got a toot from a train driver hauling cattle (pic) and ploughed on towards Proserpine, starting to think about where to camp - neither of us was keen to pay big-town caravan park prices unless really necessary.
As it happened we soon came upon a CP in a very nice location by the O’Connel River, and we were only charged $6 each for the privilege! There was a pool here too so once the tent was up I cooled off for half an hour before dinner. A fellow camper gave us a fish he had caught and cooked (Bream) which was kind and which we added to the spag concoction. Afterwards Norm blagged or bought a couple of beers from someone so we had a wee drink and blather on the dark riverbank with unseen fish splashing around below us.
I think I will give the Whitsunday Islands a miss - it’s a 40km detour each way plus I would have to leave the bike somewhere if going over on the ferry for a day tour, which I’m not keen to do. If I don’t do the WI’s I will probably try and make Bowen tomorrow, which seems like a nice place from what I’ve been told.
DAY 148: Mackay to Cape Hillsborough
60 km at 15.8 km/hr
Thurs 20th March 2008
Distance to date 8873 km (5546 miles)
Rain, warm, sunny evening
I slept peacefully again, not waking until 0730 when the house started to come alive. After breakfast and having said our respective goodbyes to our host and hostess Peter and Jackie we hit the heavy early morning rush-hour traffic. The Mackay suburbs / industrial area goes on for some 5km of sometimes hilly terrain, but eventually the city slipped away and we were back in open country- mostlt grazing land and sugar cane. It was still fairly hilly but nothing too steep, and since we were heading NW the SE wind was on the left side. The traffic was pretty heavy with plenty of lorries and more than usual caravanners and campervans getting away for the forthcoming Easter weekend.
As we neared the right turn onto the Cape Hillsborough road it started to rain; heavily at times, but it was quite warm nevertheless so we shrugged it off. A few km along this road there is an organic shop selling fruit, veg, sauces etc., and I bought some (rather expensive) organic muesli and some bananas. Norm and I chatted to the owner for a while as we waited for the rain to subside - he is from California originally but has been here many years growing fruit and veg and building up this business. The rain had stopped as we set off again but started again almost immediately, and heavy again. I had expected this road to be quiet but it was fairly busy, made worse by having no shoulder at all, and there were plenty of lorries though God knows where they were going to. We had a very near miss indeed when a red cement lorry came within inches of knocking us both off - another cement lorry from the same company was coming the other way at the same time, and though the driver going our way had time to slow down until it was safe to pass us he chose to just push on and squeeze us off the road. Drivers like him eveidently have no regard for human life - he would rather kill us than have to lose a few seconds it seems. We both finished up on the rough verge which wasn’t fit for riding on, but we had no choice. The incident left me feeling very angry, and even more so when Norm told me that a few days ago a lorry had actually made contact with him in a similar incident, which had left a huge gash in his right arm which needed several stitches. Most lorry drivers are ok, and I always try to remember to wave in thanks when they give me a wide berth, but the bad ones I have to regard as very dangerous / unstable / drunk / half asleep or whatever and take my own responsibility to avoid them by using the mirror and constantly evaluating the situation on the road. This is by far the most important lesson I have learnt so far on this tour.
We got a good soaking over the following couple of hours but before we arrived at the Smalley’s Beach camping area it had ceased and we were able to set our tents up in the dry, and in my case, unknowingly at the time, on an ants nest. I made coffee for us and then we headed off to explore the delights of the Cape Hillsborough NP.
It was very nice indeed; we found an interesting rainforest walk (the Yuibera plant trail) which felt like a jungle at times with it’s dense tree cover and swampy mangrove-tangled floor, and there were plenty of informative signs related to the flora and fauna of this particular habitat. We also cycled slowly around the Diversity Boardwalk, the boardwalk set above the murky bog in which Mud Skippers were playfully skipping around in their chosen element. A few strange (to me) birds were spotted, and I will now have to get a ‘proper’ bird book as the number of species increases as I move north - there are some less common birds now that are a challenge to identify with the simple guides I have. We also tried another designated walk but it proved too sandy for the bikes.
Once back at camp I set to to prepare supper with ingredients from both Norm and myself, and I must say it turned out OK (spaghetti / tuna etc). Tomorrow we are going to head north west again, back onto the Bruce Highway towards Airlie Beach and the Whitsunday Islands. Norm and I went for a walk on the (full) moonlit beach, and although he is great company I wished he could be Lyn for a while (;->). later on I got the binoculars and lay on my back on the coarse sand studying the moon (as you do!).
Thurs 20th March 2008
Distance to date 8873 km (5546 miles)
Rain, warm, sunny evening
I slept peacefully again, not waking until 0730 when the house started to come alive. After breakfast and having said our respective goodbyes to our host and hostess Peter and Jackie we hit the heavy early morning rush-hour traffic. The Mackay suburbs / industrial area goes on for some 5km of sometimes hilly terrain, but eventually the city slipped away and we were back in open country- mostlt grazing land and sugar cane. It was still fairly hilly but nothing too steep, and since we were heading NW the SE wind was on the left side. The traffic was pretty heavy with plenty of lorries and more than usual caravanners and campervans getting away for the forthcoming Easter weekend.
As we neared the right turn onto the Cape Hillsborough road it started to rain; heavily at times, but it was quite warm nevertheless so we shrugged it off. A few km along this road there is an organic shop selling fruit, veg, sauces etc., and I bought some (rather expensive) organic muesli and some bananas. Norm and I chatted to the owner for a while as we waited for the rain to subside - he is from California originally but has been here many years growing fruit and veg and building up this business. The rain had stopped as we set off again but started again almost immediately, and heavy again. I had expected this road to be quiet but it was fairly busy, made worse by having no shoulder at all, and there were plenty of lorries though God knows where they were going to. We had a very near miss indeed when a red cement lorry came within inches of knocking us both off - another cement lorry from the same company was coming the other way at the same time, and though the driver going our way had time to slow down until it was safe to pass us he chose to just push on and squeeze us off the road. Drivers like him eveidently have no regard for human life - he would rather kill us than have to lose a few seconds it seems. We both finished up on the rough verge which wasn’t fit for riding on, but we had no choice. The incident left me feeling very angry, and even more so when Norm told me that a few days ago a lorry had actually made contact with him in a similar incident, which had left a huge gash in his right arm which needed several stitches. Most lorry drivers are ok, and I always try to remember to wave in thanks when they give me a wide berth, but the bad ones I have to regard as very dangerous / unstable / drunk / half asleep or whatever and take my own responsibility to avoid them by using the mirror and constantly evaluating the situation on the road. This is by far the most important lesson I have learnt so far on this tour.
We got a good soaking over the following couple of hours but before we arrived at the Smalley’s Beach camping area it had ceased and we were able to set our tents up in the dry, and in my case, unknowingly at the time, on an ants nest. I made coffee for us and then we headed off to explore the delights of the Cape Hillsborough NP.
It was very nice indeed; we found an interesting rainforest walk (the Yuibera plant trail) which felt like a jungle at times with it’s dense tree cover and swampy mangrove-tangled floor, and there were plenty of informative signs related to the flora and fauna of this particular habitat. We also cycled slowly around the Diversity Boardwalk, the boardwalk set above the murky bog in which Mud Skippers were playfully skipping around in their chosen element. A few strange (to me) birds were spotted, and I will now have to get a ‘proper’ bird book as the number of species increases as I move north - there are some less common birds now that are a challenge to identify with the simple guides I have. We also tried another designated walk but it proved too sandy for the bikes.
Once back at camp I set to to prepare supper with ingredients from both Norm and myself, and I must say it turned out OK (spaghetti / tuna etc). Tomorrow we are going to head north west again, back onto the Bruce Highway towards Airlie Beach and the Whitsunday Islands. Norm and I went for a walk on the (full) moonlit beach, and although he is great company I wished he could be Lyn for a while (;->). later on I got the binoculars and lay on my back on the coarse sand studying the moon (as you do!).
The fruits in the pic are wilod figs - actually covered in termites in this case!
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
DAY 147 Day off in Mackay
Weds 19th March 2008
Distance to date 8873 km (5546 miles)
Cloudy, sunny intervals
A comfortable night in a real bed again, and a lie-in until 0730. After our hosts had gone off to work Norm and I busied ourselves doing washing and updating blogs, until around noon when we went off to explore the places Peter had told us about last night. The riverbank is quite pleasant with it’s smart walkways and shelters, and sections of rain forest vegetation. Everything is pretty new, like the Botanic Gardens, and as I understand it this city is expanding on the back of the huge open seam coal mining complex nearby. We crossed the road bridge to the north of the river and found a mangrove / swampland conservation area that could be cycled around easily enough. The sunlight shining through the trees and highlighting the pink trunks of the paperbark trees was utterly beautiful and I was in my element. Unfortunately the mozzies were out in force which reminded me to buy some more repellent. They are obviously worse in places like this where the ground is very wet, and Mackay has been one of the wettest places in Oz these last few months - in one 24-hour period a few weeks ago 770mm of rain fell - that’s an inch per hour for 24 hours, amazing. Peter told us that they just watched it rain and rain that day with the water rising to a foot deep under the house. The house was built in the 30's a la Queensland, stilt style - the whole house is supported on wooden posts, so the water didn't come into the main part of the house. Tamma used to have his bedroom down there though so that was washed out.
We got a bit lost on the way back to our hosts but eventually got there. We are planning to ride the 50km or so to Cape Hillsborough tomorrow, and hopefully get camped on the NP beach campsite there. We've had a great time with peter and family here and are very grateful for his unconditional hospitality.
Distance to date 8873 km (5546 miles)
Cloudy, sunny intervals
A comfortable night in a real bed again, and a lie-in until 0730. After our hosts had gone off to work Norm and I busied ourselves doing washing and updating blogs, until around noon when we went off to explore the places Peter had told us about last night. The riverbank is quite pleasant with it’s smart walkways and shelters, and sections of rain forest vegetation. Everything is pretty new, like the Botanic Gardens, and as I understand it this city is expanding on the back of the huge open seam coal mining complex nearby. We crossed the road bridge to the north of the river and found a mangrove / swampland conservation area that could be cycled around easily enough. The sunlight shining through the trees and highlighting the pink trunks of the paperbark trees was utterly beautiful and I was in my element. Unfortunately the mozzies were out in force which reminded me to buy some more repellent. They are obviously worse in places like this where the ground is very wet, and Mackay has been one of the wettest places in Oz these last few months - in one 24-hour period a few weeks ago 770mm of rain fell - that’s an inch per hour for 24 hours, amazing. Peter told us that they just watched it rain and rain that day with the water rising to a foot deep under the house. The house was built in the 30's a la Queensland, stilt style - the whole house is supported on wooden posts, so the water didn't come into the main part of the house. Tamma used to have his bedroom down there though so that was washed out.
We got a bit lost on the way back to our hosts but eventually got there. We are planning to ride the 50km or so to Cape Hillsborough tomorrow, and hopefully get camped on the NP beach campsite there. We've had a great time with peter and family here and are very grateful for his unconditional hospitality.
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
DAY 146: Carmila to Mackay
DAY 146: Carmila to Mackay
91 km at 20.5 km/hr
Tue 18th March 2008
Distance to date 8873 km (5546 miles)
Cloudy, sunny intervals
I didn’t sleep well last night due to the neighbouring couple leaving the TV blaring until the early hours, and a mammoth family row going on nearby. After a quick muesli breakfast I hit the road at 0720, glad to get away from this place. Why didn’t I just find somewhere at the side of the road to camp? There would have been somewhere suitable I’m sure given the remoteness of the area.
The road was busier today than the last 2 days, mostly extra lorries; however there was a good width for the whole of today’s route, so I never felt pressured. The SE wind was just as strong as ever too, so I was blown along very nicely. There’s still nothing in the way of a hill other than gently undulating sections, and even when going uphill I rarely dropped below 15 km/hr.
After 12km I spotted the rare sight of another touring cyclist coming south towards me so I pulled over and waited for him. We were quite delighted to meet as you see so few cyclists out on the open road, and we had a good chat for a while. His name is Mark, from Barcelona, and he is riding from Cairns to Sydney. He came out to Oz with his girlfriend and they bought a campervan, and as I understand it she has gone back to Spain and left the campervan in Sydney for him to collect, so at least he has somewhere to live for now and some transport. I gave him my card and he will hopefully be in touch when he gets chance.
I stopped for a rest at Ilbilbie and decided to have a bacon and egg roll, but when it came it included salad, cheese and a pile of chips! Far too much for me but I kept the chips for later and ate the rest; not quite what I was after though, still it only cost $6.50 so I shouldn’t complain. Thus fortified I continued north over muddy creeks, weaving through broken branches and bits of lorry and shredded tyre scattered along the road, until I rolled into Sarina, a small town 35km before Mackay. I tried the library for internet but it was expensive and the librarian had no idea whether I could upload, so I didn’t try and went to the nearby internet cafe instead and got it all done in no time for $3, and had an iced coffee whilst at it.
The run into Mackay from here was very fast - the wind was strong and bang on the tail. I knew I needed to be at Peter and Jackie’s at 1730 so I had time to kill, and I had a look around the Botanic Gardens, which are close to the road in from the south. They’re nice enough but very new - planted from 2002 I think, so there were few big trees for shade, and not so much to look at; however it will be very nice in 10 years or so. There was a nice cafe there too but it’s closed on Mondays and Tuesdays unfortunately. From here I went to have a look around the town, which is pretty modern and a bit sprawling at first sight, but I understand there is a lot more to see than this. I saw a bike shop and went in to buy a rear light after losing my last one somewhere, and Norm was in there, whom I met in Rocky! He had broken a spoke so was having his wheel rebuilt. I gave my host Peter a call and he said it would be fine to bring Norm along to stay tonight too. Once Norm’s bike was sorted we went for a coffee and cake to await 1730 and had a good natter.
Peter and Jackie and their 2 boys Tamma and Bellamy, and not least their very friendly dog Cactus, made us very welcome in true Warmshowers style. Throughout the evening we learnt about what to see and do both locally and further north as we travel to Cairns. I was particularly interested in visiting Cape Hillsborough which several people have recommended, it being very quiet and unspoilt with idyllic beaches and peaceful rainforest, and it’s not too big a detour either. Tamma cooked us all a great spag boll (the family take turns in cooking dinner) and afterwards we watched the Graeme Obree DVD “The Flying Scotsman”, which I haven’t seen before and really enjoyed.
91 km at 20.5 km/hr
Tue 18th March 2008
Distance to date 8873 km (5546 miles)
Cloudy, sunny intervals
I didn’t sleep well last night due to the neighbouring couple leaving the TV blaring until the early hours, and a mammoth family row going on nearby. After a quick muesli breakfast I hit the road at 0720, glad to get away from this place. Why didn’t I just find somewhere at the side of the road to camp? There would have been somewhere suitable I’m sure given the remoteness of the area.
The road was busier today than the last 2 days, mostly extra lorries; however there was a good width for the whole of today’s route, so I never felt pressured. The SE wind was just as strong as ever too, so I was blown along very nicely. There’s still nothing in the way of a hill other than gently undulating sections, and even when going uphill I rarely dropped below 15 km/hr.
After 12km I spotted the rare sight of another touring cyclist coming south towards me so I pulled over and waited for him. We were quite delighted to meet as you see so few cyclists out on the open road, and we had a good chat for a while. His name is Mark, from Barcelona, and he is riding from Cairns to Sydney. He came out to Oz with his girlfriend and they bought a campervan, and as I understand it she has gone back to Spain and left the campervan in Sydney for him to collect, so at least he has somewhere to live for now and some transport. I gave him my card and he will hopefully be in touch when he gets chance.
I stopped for a rest at Ilbilbie and decided to have a bacon and egg roll, but when it came it included salad, cheese and a pile of chips! Far too much for me but I kept the chips for later and ate the rest; not quite what I was after though, still it only cost $6.50 so I shouldn’t complain. Thus fortified I continued north over muddy creeks, weaving through broken branches and bits of lorry and shredded tyre scattered along the road, until I rolled into Sarina, a small town 35km before Mackay. I tried the library for internet but it was expensive and the librarian had no idea whether I could upload, so I didn’t try and went to the nearby internet cafe instead and got it all done in no time for $3, and had an iced coffee whilst at it.
The run into Mackay from here was very fast - the wind was strong and bang on the tail. I knew I needed to be at Peter and Jackie’s at 1730 so I had time to kill, and I had a look around the Botanic Gardens, which are close to the road in from the south. They’re nice enough but very new - planted from 2002 I think, so there were few big trees for shade, and not so much to look at; however it will be very nice in 10 years or so. There was a nice cafe there too but it’s closed on Mondays and Tuesdays unfortunately. From here I went to have a look around the town, which is pretty modern and a bit sprawling at first sight, but I understand there is a lot more to see than this. I saw a bike shop and went in to buy a rear light after losing my last one somewhere, and Norm was in there, whom I met in Rocky! He had broken a spoke so was having his wheel rebuilt. I gave my host Peter a call and he said it would be fine to bring Norm along to stay tonight too. Once Norm’s bike was sorted we went for a coffee and cake to await 1730 and had a good natter.
Peter and Jackie and their 2 boys Tamma and Bellamy, and not least their very friendly dog Cactus, made us very welcome in true Warmshowers style. Throughout the evening we learnt about what to see and do both locally and further north as we travel to Cairns. I was particularly interested in visiting Cape Hillsborough which several people have recommended, it being very quiet and unspoilt with idyllic beaches and peaceful rainforest, and it’s not too big a detour either. Tamma cooked us all a great spag boll (the family take turns in cooking dinner) and afterwards we watched the Graeme Obree DVD “The Flying Scotsman”, which I haven’t seen before and really enjoyed.
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